[Hallicrafters] Prepping metal lids

[Barry Hauser]

Hi Phil --

Before you open or use anything, suggest you check out my comments.

> Hello all  Today I visited the paint store (and automotive store for
spray 
> paint). Whew, those guys saw me coming!  Three cans at the auto store
for a 
> can of Silver Aluminium color for the lid, 

What are we painting -- the SX-71?  I have one of them, but the cover is
not the original color.  I believe the color scheme should be the same as
an SX-42 or SX-62 and a number of other Hallicrafters of that era.

If so, silver-aluminum may be too much.  An automotive silver-gray or
pewter color may be more like it.  The silver on those "holy" covers is
somewhat muted.  Too bright and you're radio will look "tacky" --- all
together now "eeeeewwwwwwwwww"

>Flat black for the case (Both Krylon Rust Tough enamel) and a can of
Dupli-color "Rust-Fix" which is 
> supposed to turn light rust into black primer.

Why flat black?  All of the Halli's I've seen are at least a semigloss or
satin.  Flat, as a rule, hides more defects -- as it does for bad
spackling on sheetrock walls.  However, on metal, it will mar easily with
fingerprints and fingernail scratches.

The black on all my Halli's (except the SX-28) appears to have a slight
metal flake or metallic content, and all have some gloss to them.  It's
easier to start with a full gloss paint, if satin isn't available --- I
think you can find black satin in Rustoleum -- which is a more durable,
but slower curing paint than Krylon.

> 
> Then off to the paint shop where I got a can of Jasco Paint remover,
Jasco
> metal "Prep & Primer" which appears to do the same thing as the can of
> "Rust-Fix" turning light rust into black primer.

The self-etching primers seem to be OK.  I don't know about turning rust
to black primer.  It's best to remove all the rust, and the best thing
for that is a Scotchbrite pad.  Don't use steel wool and don't use a wire
brush with steel bristles -- brass at most.  You can get a small brass
bristle detailing brush in the auto supply stores -- often sold with a
nylon and steel bristle one -- like big toothbrushes.

  (It was about the same
> price as the spray on "Rust-Fix" for a big quart bottle, I can  return
> whichever I don't use).    Large and small steel brushes, heavy 
> "solvent" type rubber gloves (I already had safety goggles).

The steel brushes may be harder than the steel of the cabinet and cover
and too coarse.  Test them on an inconspicuous spot.  The scratches they
make might show through the new paint, unless you really lard it on.
Also, the bristles are probably too stiff to do much good in the cover
holes.

> Now, a couple questions.
> 1.  It appears that a light coat of "rust" might be actually of 
> benefit in preparing the metal.  that fits the description of the "holy
lid" 
> after I removed the paint from it (what paint was left on it).  I had 
> intended to use the remaining Naval Jelly I have to remove the surface
rust but 
> it appears this step may NOT be necessary or even desirable.  This lid 
> has a light coating of surface rust but no pits etc.  Your thoughts??

Get rid of the rust.  Don't fall for the hypee on the label.  Light rust
will come off easily with a Scotchbrite pad and you can use it over and
over by washing it out.  Use it wet toward the end.

 
> 2.  Has anybody used the Jasco Prep & Primer (a green liquid in a 
> plastic bottle)?  It says it contains Phosphoric Acid and turns rust to

> inert black primer.

I've use straight/diluted phosphoric acid which is essential in some form
for painting bare metal.  I also used a self-etching gray primer which
worked well.  I'm surprised they didn't offer the straight prep wash
(phosphoric acid) at the auto paint shop.  In that form, it's put on with
a sponge, allowed to sit for a few minutes and then flushed with clean
water to remove all traces.   I don't know about turning rust into black
primer - have to check with an alchemist on that one ;-)  BTW, phosphoric
acid is one of the active ingredients in Coca Cola.  Traditional going
back to the custom mixed at the soda fountain days -- yup, ye olde
"phosphate"  It helps settle the stomach and was a favorite for curing
the "vapors".  You can still buy it in anti-nausea products over the
counter.

In paint prep, phosphoric acid micro-etches slick steel surfaces so the
primer will hold.  If you ever saw a car with paint peeling in big sheets
-- it wasn't prepped right.

  How about the Dupli-Color in a spray can?  It doesn't list 
> it's ingredients but I suspect it is a similar product in a spray can. 

> Probably the thin liquid and the spray would 'most likely' get into all
the 
> little vent perforations about equally well.  Spray is probably easier
to 
> use but the Jasco product was cheaper considering the quanity obtained
of 
> just a little more money.

Is the Dupli-Color a primer too?  I dunno -- seems you would have gotten
a better color match for the cover with some Dupli-Color silver-grey for
some car or other.  There is that guy who sells the right paint for the
Halli's.
> 
> Now, I don't know if the Paint remover did it or if I tore it on a 
> sharp corner on the lid but my left hand rubber glove 'developed' a
large 
> hole in the thumb area.  Think I may have tore it on the lid.  Bummer!

Tape it up with electrical tape.

I dunno, Phil.  It doesn't sound like you have the ideal supplies.  What
say the crew?

Barry

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