[GreenKeys] [External] Just bought an Ebay ASR33 in the UK
Alf Fisher
alffisher2 at gmail.com
Sun Feb 9 17:07:38 EST 2025
Rob and Ian,
I have seven 10-32 screws to which you are most welcome.
I'm not sure who actually needs them so you can each have three to secure
the mechanism in your ASR33.
Just let me know your needs.
73,
Alf
G3WSD
On Sun, 9 Feb 2025, 18:58 Rob Jarratt via GreenKeys, <
greenkeys at mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> So, I would like to be prepared with shipping screws for my Model 33, and I
> also need screws for bolting it to its stand. Can I just confirm please:
>
> Shipping screws: Three 10-32 1" long
> Stand screws: 6-40? What length please?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net <greenkeys-
> > bounces at mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of Jones, Douglas W via GreenKeys
> > Sent: 04 February 2025 21:31
> > To: ian parr <parrid at hotmail.com>; greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] [External] Just bought an Ebay ASR33 in the UK
> >
> > From: ian parr <parrid at hotmail.com> -- Tuesday, February 4, 2025 11:29
> AM
> > > I have finally managed to buy an ASR33 in the UK.
> > > It's in a bit of sorry state ...
> > > ...any suggestions or observations ...
> >
> > It looks entirely reparable. The one I fixed took more work:
> > -- https://homepage.cs.uiowa.edu/~dwjones/pdp8/UI-8/bugs.shtml#TTY33
> >
> > Before you move it, beware:
> > a) Do not lift by the paper-tape reader or punch "outriggers." These are
> > fragile, not designed to carry the weight. Lift by the front and back.
> > b) Do not tip on its back or side unless you install shipping screws and
> > understand how to install them.
> > c) It is not hard to remove the top of the TTY from its pedestal. 4
> screws that
> > you access from below after removing the back of the pedestal. Some TTYs
> > have a power supply mounted in the pedestal. This unplugs.
> > d) Once the top and pedestal are separated, the top would fit easily on a
> car
> > seat, and aside from worrying about denting the metalwork, the pedestal
> is
> > not delecate.
> >
> > One of the annoying aspects of fixing these things is that Teletype
> > Corporation liked using relatively obscure screws -- like 6-40 UNF. 6-32
> UNC is
> > common. 32 threads per inch. 6-40 is relatively rare, the same
> diameter,
> but
> > 40 threads per inch. This was no problem for the company, they made
> their
> > own screws. If you have the tools to make your own screws, it won't be a
> > problem for you, but you can't buy these screws at the local discount
> store,
> > they are relatively rare.
> >
> > Many standard radio knobs will fit the line-local switch on the front.
> The
> > platten knob is harder, but there are people who've 3-D printed
> > replacements.
> >
> > You really can, with care and careful documentation, disassemble the
> thing
> > almost all the way. The worst part of reassembly is sticking all the
> springs
> > back on their hooks. I would avoid total disassembly, but if you break
> it
> down
> > into large subassemblies, it is not difficult to clean, unstick,
> de-grease
> and re-
> > lubricate the pieces. I strongly recommend working incrementally, and
> make
> > a point of labeling each part you remove. I made a bunch of light
> cardboard
> > tags that I tied with string to parts, so I could remember the order they
> were
> > removed in and from where. References page numbers and drawings in the
> > manual are a useful way to work the labels.
> >
> > If you have to remove the keyboard, bind the end plates to the sides with
> a
> > few wraps of wire so they don't spring loose. If you do let them get
> loose,
> > reassembly is difficult (far from impossible, I had to do this to replace
> keycaps
> > and one of the encoder blocks.)
> >
> > Doug Jones
> > ______________________________________________________________
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> >
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> > delivered to robert.jarratt at ntlworld.com
>
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>
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