So, I would like to be prepared with shipping screws for my Model 33, and I
also need screws for bolting it to its stand. Can I just confirm please:

Shipping screws: Three 10-32 1" long
Stand screws: 6-40? What length please?

Thanks

Rob

> -----Original Message-----
> From: greenkeys-bounces@mailman.qth.net <greenkeys-
> bounces@mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of Jones, Douglas W via GreenKeys
> Sent: 04 February 2025 21:31
> To: ian parr <parrid@hotmail.com>; greenkeys@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] [External] Just bought an Ebay ASR33 in the UK
>
> From: ian parr <parrid@hotmail.com> -- Tuesday, February 4, 2025 11:29 AM
> > I have finally managed to buy an ASR33 in the UK.
> > It's in a bit of sorry state ...
> > ...any suggestions or observations ...
>
> It looks entirely reparable.  The one I fixed took more work:
> -- https://homepage.cs.uiowa.edu/~dwjones/pdp8/UI-8/bugs.shtml#TTY33
>
> Before you move it, beware:
> a) Do not lift by the paper-tape reader or punch "outriggers."  These are
> fragile, not designed to carry the weight.  Lift by the front and back.
> b) Do not tip on its back or side unless you install shipping screws and
> understand how to install them.
> c) It is not hard to remove the top of the TTY from its pedestal.  4
screws that
> you access from below after removing the back of the pedestal.  Some TTYs
> have a power supply mounted in the pedestal.  This unplugs.
> d) Once the top and pedestal are separated, the top would fit easily on a
car
> seat, and aside from worrying about denting the metalwork, the pedestal is
> not delecate.
>
> One of the annoying aspects of fixing these things is that Teletype
> Corporation liked using relatively obscure screws -- like 6-40 UNF.  6-32
UNC is
> common.  32 threads per inch.  6-40 is relatively rare, the same diameter,
but
> 40 threads per inch.  This was no problem for the company, they made their
> own screws.  If you have the tools to make your own screws, it won't be a
> problem for you, but you can't buy these screws at the local discount
store,
> they are relatively rare.
>
> Many standard radio knobs will fit the line-local switch on the front.
The
> platten knob is harder, but there are people who've 3-D printed
> replacements.
>
> You really can, with care and careful documentation, disassemble the thing
> almost all the way.  The worst part of reassembly is sticking all the
springs
> back on their hooks.  I would avoid total disassembly, but if you break it
down
> into large subassemblies, it is not difficult to clean, unstick, de-grease
and re-
> lubricate the pieces.  I strongly recommend working incrementally, and
make
> a point of labeling each part you remove.  I made a bunch of light
cardboard
> tags that I tied with string to parts, so I could remember the order they
were
> removed in and from where.  References page numbers and drawings in the
> manual are a useful way to work the labels.
>
> If you have to remove the keyboard, bind the end plates to the sides with
a
> few wraps of wire so they don't spring loose.  If you do let them get
loose,
> reassembly is difficult (far from impossible, I had to do this to replace
keycaps
> and one of the encoder blocks.)
>
>                 Doug Jones
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