[GreenKeys] M28ASR perf question

John, W9DDD w9ddd at tapr.org
Sun Feb 27 17:24:44 EST 2022


Hi Gene,

Some musings on the subject (none of which may or may not be useful?).

I suspect the sticky bits are in the "basket".  That's a reference in 
some training literature for the ASR keyboard linkage bits between what 
would be a regular keyboard mechanism and the perforator or 
reperforator.  As an aside, the cam within the that basket which rotates 
along with the switch (K/KT/T) determines if the keyboard is 
mechanically linked to the reperforator or not. I'm not sure why they 
thought the mechanical linkage was useful if you have a reperforator, 
but it's there.  Couldn't it have all been electrical switching? If the 
ASR is equipped with a perforator, then it is necessary.

Since you want to go from chadless to fully perforated tape on a 
reperforator, in theory it would just be a drop in swap.  But I'm sure 
there'd be some adjustments involving the "basket". Also I suspect there 
might be some minor nuances between a reperf for standalone applications 
(ROTR) and one for ASR keyboar applications.

---
----
The above comments or recommendations are SWAG. Use at your own risk.
John, W9DDD

On 2/27/2022 3:34 PM, W2HX wrote:
>
> Hi friends,
>
> I have a 28ASR with a chadless perforator/reperf. The way it is set up 
> is when the K/KT/T switch is in “T” mode, it will punch tape from the 
> keyboard. There is also a switch that allows the reperf to punch the 
> tape from the loop. When I punch tape from the loop the perf works 
> great. Always repeatable and correct. However, in KT or T mode, it is 
> not consistent. Almost always there is some stuck bits. Recently it 
> was punching all 5 holes regardless of what I typed. And then again it 
> will work but bit 5 might be stuck on. But it always works great when 
> configured in the loop.
>
> A few years ago I bought a plastic print head from K6YIC for the perf 
> to install it. The procedure looks quite involved. So I got to 
> thinkin’. I’ve always wanted a full chad perforator. Even if I have to 
> deal with the punched chads. I think it demonstrates better and I do 
> enjoy demonstrating for shack visitors.
>
> So I am wondering, maybe now is the time to swap out my perf with a 
> full chad version and also install the new plastic print head at the 
> same time? Can anyone tell me a few things?
>
>  1. Are the sticking bits most likely an issue with the perf mechanism
>     or the keyboard levers? If it is the keyboard, then a new
>     perforator wouldn’t help fix it
>  2. What is involved in swapping a perforator? Hard? Easy?
>  3. Where do the chads go with a full chad unit? How are the chads
>     emptied? Are there any modifications I would need to my cabinet?
>     Anyone have a video on this?
>  4. Anyone have a spare full-chad perforator for sale?
>
> I guess I could attempt to find the cause of the sticking bits, but if 
> I really want a full chad unit, why not just replace it. Would seem 
> the path of least resistance. But open to ideas.
>
> 73 Eugene W2HX
> Subscribe to my Youtube Channel: 
> https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos
>
>
>
>
>
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