Hi Gene,

Some musings on the subject (none of which may or may not be useful?).

I suspect the sticky bits are in the "basket".  That's a reference in some training literature for the ASR keyboard linkage bits between what would be a regular keyboard mechanism and the perforator or reperforator.  As an aside, the cam within the that basket which rotates along with the switch (K/KT/T) determines if the keyboard is mechanically linked to the reperforator or not.  I'm not sure why they thought the mechanical linkage was useful if you have a reperforator, but it's there.  Couldn't it have all been electrical switching? If the ASR is equipped with a perforator, then it is necessary.

Since you want to go from chadless to fully perforated tape on a reperforator, in theory it would just be a drop in swap.  But I'm sure there'd be some adjustments involving the "basket". Also I suspect there might be some minor nuances between a reperf for standalone applications (ROTR) and one for ASR keyboar applications.

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The above comments or recommendations are SWAG. Use at your own risk.
John, W9DDD
On 2/27/2022 3:34 PM, W2HX wrote:

Hi friends,

 

I have a 28ASR with a chadless perforator/reperf. The way it is set up is when the K/KT/T switch is in “T” mode, it will punch tape from the keyboard. There is also a switch that allows the reperf to punch the tape from the loop. When I punch tape from the loop the perf works great. Always repeatable and correct. However, in KT or T mode, it is not consistent. Almost always there is some stuck bits. Recently it was punching all 5 holes regardless of what I typed. And then again it will work but bit 5 might be stuck on. But it always works great when configured in the loop.

 

A few years ago I bought a plastic print head from K6YIC for the perf to install it. The procedure looks quite involved. So I got to thinkin’. I’ve always wanted a full chad perforator. Even if I have to deal with the punched chads. I think it demonstrates better and I do enjoy demonstrating for shack visitors.

 

So I am wondering, maybe now is the time to swap out my perf with a full chad version and also install the new plastic print head at the same time? Can anyone tell me a few things?

  1. Are the sticking bits most likely an issue with the perf mechanism or the keyboard levers? If it is the keyboard, then a new perforator wouldn’t help fix it
  2. What is involved in swapping a perforator? Hard? Easy?
  3. Where do the chads go with a full chad unit? How are the chads emptied? Are there any modifications I would need to my cabinet? Anyone have a video on this?
  4. Anyone have a spare full-chad perforator for sale?

 

I guess I could attempt to find the cause of the sticking bits, but if I really want a full chad unit, why not just replace it. Would seem the path of least resistance. But open to ideas.

 

 

73 Eugene W2HX
Subscribe to my Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos

 





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