[GreenKeys] WD-40

[Doug Hensley]

Jeffrey, US Navy TT repairmen used warmed oil baths with the typing unit setting in a slightly bouncing agitator basket.
The platinum was usually removed.  You can simulate the agitation by running a small cleaning vat pump to circulate the oil.
Time, temperature & circulation are needed to give all the felts & oilite bushings the nourishment they need in reabsorbing
their capacity of 10W lubricant.  The bronze sleeves in particular on your rear lower gear train need time and an
elevated temperature to reabsorb the oil they have been dispensing.  Most ships adapted a kerosene parts washer
to do the job.  But don't ever wash a TU with a solvent as you will ruin it.

WD40, FWIW, was designed to coat & seal small part assemblies, particularly motor vehicle carburetors, from weather
& oxidation.  It was a cost effective replacement for fungus treatment (think MFP) which was impractical in the field.

Use an old aquarium and then hang the basket up over it for a time to let it drip free.  At sea we did this for each typing
unit every 90 days and sometimes less.  I remember when we would take on harbor watch traffic for ships in port, our
printers were running 24 x 7 non stop.  During those periods we kept clean printers ready to drop in while more were
being cleaned & lubricated.  The reperfs took the most severe beating.

Boston Gear and others have the times & temperature charts available for servicing oilite (sintered bronze) bushings.

Doug W5JV




Visit https://www.qrz.com/db/W5JV for some great vacuum tube finds.



________________________________
From: greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net <greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net> on behalf of Jones, Douglas W <douglas-w-jones at uiowa.edu>
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 8:58 AM
To: Jeffrey Angus <jdangus at att.net>; greenkeys <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] WD-40

From: Jeffrey Angus [jdangus at att.net] -- Sunday, September 6, 2020 6:53 AM

> What's the procedure for removing WD-40 and getting my printer to work again?

My understanding is that WD-40 is basically kerosene, with some industrial perfume added to give it a nice smell and perhaps something else.  The primary problem with using it as a lubricant is that it is temporary.  The kerosene evaporates.  The small amount of other stuff in it may turn to gunk, but that will dissolve in light instrument oil.  What you need to do is use light instrument oil -- something that doesn't evaporate.  If the gunk issue is serious, degrease first, then re-lubricate.  That's ususally only necessary if the gunk was serious before you used WD-40; the kerosene in WD-40 dissolves gunk and lets the mix of gunk and kerosene act as a lubricant until the kerosene evaporates, and then you're back where you started, gunk.

         Doug Jones
         jones at cs.uiowa.edu
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