[GreenKeys] Lube
Nick
creativegardening at hotmail.com
Mon May 1 15:52:49 EDT 2017
My personal opinion :
No matter what oil you are using, you still have deal with the fact that dust (office, household, carpet and especially paper dust) will thicken the oil over time.
Depends on usage, soon or later you have to give your equipment a good cleaning and re-oiling.
Of course, later is better, right? Therfore, a good quality synthetic oil is probably the answer.
Nick - N0NCQ
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------
From: Richard Knoppow <1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com>
Date: 5/1/17 3:39 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Lube
I wonder if this mixture is true for single weight oils. Engine oil
has additives in it such as detergents, not sure if they are necessary
or desirable for general machinery. Kano Labs makes a good, highly
refined petroleum based oil called Microil, about 20 weight, might be
good for this. Not supposed to gum up. There are also synthetic oils
available at hobby shops specializing in model trains. I've used LaBell
brand but, as you say, its expensive and comes in small containers.
I wonder what service is required by a Teletype, i.e. high or
extreme pressure oils or just plain high quality machine oil.
On 4/30/2017 12:57 PM, John Nagle wrote:
>> From: Michael Zahorik
>> Subject: [GreenKeys] Lube Message-ID:
>>
>> The last few days, me Flexowriter has been giving my fits.The typing
>> machine works fine, but the translator has been the problem. It would
>> not type a character or type the wrong one. The translator converts
>> the tape reader contacts or the computer input into mechanicalpulls
>> on the 'seekers' which in turn operates the typing machine. Well.....
>> Ifound quite a bit of old lube that had turned into tar on the
>> translator magnets and armatures. This would cause the armatures to
>> stick and not release quickly enough. I also found some of this same
>> gunk on some of the mechanical parts that move. Making them move
>> slower then needed. So after some cleaning and adjusting, the unit is
>> working again.?My question is should the mechanical levers, bails,
>> camsetal be lubed? There is not much in the Friden manuals regarding
>> lubing the translator. So I've been rather stingy with any oil. Afraid
>> I'd gum it upagain. Any advice on lube. The Friden can't be that
>> different than the TeleType in this department. Thanks Mike
>
> I've been using 0-20W synthetic motor oil on five Teletype machines
> since 2008 without problems. Synthetic motor oil is all one
> molecular weight - there are no heavy fractions. Most oils are
> a mixture of various molecular weights, from very light down to
> asphalt. This is OK at first, but the light fractions evaporate
> first and leave the tar and asphalt components behind.
>
> There are synthetic machine oils, but they tend to retail
> in tiny containers with excessive prices and come from
> vendors you never heard of and without a chemical composition
> listed. Full synthetic motor oils aren't that expensive
> and are easy to buy.
>
> It took me weeks to unjam a Teletype Model 15 which someone
> had lubricated with an oil with heavy fractions, then
> left in a garage for twenty years. See:
>
> http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43672.0.html
>
>
> John Nagle
> ______________________________________________________________
--
Richard Knoppow
1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL
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