[GreenKeys] Capacitor underneath keyboard - Model 19...

Mon Jul 31 19:21:41 EDT 2017

Hi Steve,

Thank you so much for the reply - that helped out a lot ^^ !  I’ve spent much of the past couple of days pouring over the thing.  The main unit pretty much checks out on the DC side - except for not checking a couple of capacitors, but they look ok (not bulging or anything).  Two strange things I’ve found on the main unit is that the the two terminals on the control relay (on the backside of the unit) are still wired while the contacts next to it are disconnected and spliced into a loop.  I can’t see the control relay effecting anything on the wiring schematic, so that seems ok.  The 1 mF capacitor below where contact strip 61-66 has one wire connected to it with the other is missing… but that’s on the AC side, so I don’t think that has anything to do with the DC side.  I think the problem lies with the keyboard.  When checking the ohms on the keyboard - between contacts 52 and 53, I get a real high reading, so maybe it is those capacitors that I mentioned earlier.  Will do more readings tonight on the keyboard tonight…

For my callsign... well, to speak in code - which many will probably recognize here ^_~ , it’s:  -.- ----- .--- .. .-

…Dave - I’m not that bad but maybe I’m just kind of old fashioned ;p .  Been using email for 25 years myself… but back in the day, the only way someone could find anything out about anyone was by opening up a phonebook - and very limited information at that ;p .  Around the year 2000, it was great putting stuff about yourself out there in the net via Yahoo, etc. - before the days of Google cache and all of these other servers/websites that suck up information about everyone as much as they can - even if it’s inaccurate.  Especially when hackers hacked into my home mortgager’s database and stole all of our SSNs, credit card/band account numbers, etc. and tried ordering duplicate cards/make a change of address, etc., I prefer to be just a little more cautious now ; p.  Not afraid to use the web - just careful ^_~ … and not afraid to get out of bed in the morning, either ;p heheh~…..

Anyways, cheers!

Sincerely,
Eric :)

> On Jul 31, 2017, at 5:46 am, Steve Garrison <steve.n4tty at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Eric, you really don't need the line relay to make things work.  They were more for use with long haul lines.  With the short distance you'll be using a relay isn't really necessary.  Although if you are trying to do an authentic restoration you might find one here on the list.
> 
> And since you are a ham how about sharing your call?  There are loads of hams and non hams on this list.
> 
> Steve G./N4TTY
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 31, 2017, at 3:11 AM, E. <hanyou at xsmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> An update - learned more about capacitors… looks like they are ok.  Started taking the main machine apart and it looks like the whole "line relay K-201” part is missing… trying to figure out what that is so that I can order one from California ;p .  Also many other modifications - will take a while…..
>> 
>> Eric
>> 
>> (and yes, my ‘from’ says “E”… loved mailing lists until years ago when a DNA mailing list decided to make the mailing list a part of Google - then a whole bunch of personal information was on the web - and from there, spam started flooding my inbox… I am a ham but have been weary of putting anything more than I have to out there on mailing lists, etc. - trying to keep my last shreds of privacy private before pretty much all of it is lost with technology here not too long in the future… in other words, sorry for not being “out there” enough~…..)
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 30, 2017, at 10:10 pm, E. <hanyou at xsmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hi all,
>>> 
>>> After nearly three-quarters of a year of looking at my broken Model 19 - afraid to dive in... I finally dove in and actually, things aren’t all that complicated as I thought (hopefully).
>>> 
>>> First off, a little background.  Last year when I first got it, I got a little excited and hooked up my DC supply to see if the thing worked (without any resistors - the power supply said it was self-adjusting to current).  The keyboard was set - I believe - to keyboard and tape.  The keyboard didn’t work (I believe - it’s all a blur) but the bulb lit and the DC side seemed to work mostly.  With the keyboard not working, I flipped the switched down to tape punch only... the power supply surged to 1A - a small, burning smell wife around and everything on the DC side has been dark ever since.
>>> 
>>> I’ve suspected for a while that the problem is on the keyboard side… so today I did some multimeter measuring on the keyboard - the parts that I didn’t have to cut wires for (to begin with).  Mostly everything checked out… the punch magnets checked out at 19 ohms each, the counter magnets & release magnets for the punch all checked out at 500 ohms each, the two resistors on the underside of the keyboard (towards the back) checked out at 100 ohms each (I assume because they are in series), the resistor on to check at 350 ohms… but the large capacitors underneath the keyboard - front side, underneath that protective packet that unscrews, checks out at around .270 nF each when they should be at 1uF each (seen on the attached diagram towards the bottom).  I don’t have much experience with capacitors (neither does my wife), so could these two be part of the problem with the dead DC and if so, could their malfunction possibly have led to a problem elsewhere on the teletype (any general ideas where to start if so)???
>>> 
>>> Thanks much all and happy late summer!!!
>>> 
>>> Sincerely,
>>> Eric :)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> <diagram.jpg>
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