[GreenKeys] Removing old labels from ASR 33

Sat May 7 21:40:52 EDT 2016

Then there's always the artful dodge.

If the underlying surface is ugly, and not practical to spot-refinish, then
just cover it up. Find an NOS or reproduction period-correct label (like an
inventory control, corporate logo badge, etc) that might have some
plausible reason for being on that equipment, and put it on like a
Band-Aid.

Things could be a lot worse.

On Sat, May 7, 2016 at 8:35 PM, drlegendre . <drlegendre at gmail.com> wrote:

> One big problem with removing old adhesive labels is what is known, in the
> industry, as 'FUWT' - or - Fscked Up With Tape.
>
> This can occur with labels that have been applied to not only plastic and
> painted surfaces, but to almost bare metal (anodized aluminum is a good
> one) as well. Organic acids in the adhesive (and paper masking tape is THE
> WORST for this) will bite right into the surface, to the point that the
> label and surface become one hard, dry and immovable homogeneous substance.
>
> Woe onto thee, that suffer the FUWT. There easy ways around are few to
> none, and often only hours of painstaking manual work - followed by careful
> polishing / refinishing of the underlying surface - will be your only exit.
>
> First go-to is always a water-based solution, with a good cleaner like
> Simple Green or even Dawn.
>
> Otherwise, I use 90% isopropyl, Energine / Ronsonol or a tri-chlor /
> per-chlor family solvent such as brake cleaner or CRC Lectra Motive. As
> ever "Test first in an inconspicuous place"!
>
>
> On Sat, May 7, 2016 at 6:30 PM, Bruce Gentry <ka2ivy at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> Brake fluid also dissolves many adhesives and paints. It's out of the
>> question if the part you want to clean is painted, but if it's colored
>> plastic, try it on a hidden test spot first, giving it a day or so to
>> work.  Model railroaders use it  to remove paint from models they wish to
>> repaint, and it doesn't harm the plastic. It does have to be cleaned off
>> afterward with soap and hot water before repainting.
>>
>>       Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY
>>
>>
>> On 5/7/16 7:06 PM, David Tumey via GreenKeys wrote:
>>
>> Jeff,
>>
>> I had to remove some sub-base (hardpan) labels without destroying them so
>> they could be re-applied after repainting.  In addition to removing the
>> labels I had to remove the glue so I could use a pressure sensitive contact
>> adhesive for re-application.
>>
>> One trick that seemed to provide assistance was to CAREFULLY heat the
>> labels with a low-wattage heat gun.  This helped to soften the glue enough
>> that the label could be peeled without destroying it.  It worked
>> particularly well with the foil labels.
>>
>> Remember to test any solvent on an inconspicuous part of the plastic
>> parts before using it - make sure your chemicals do not adversely react to
>> the plastics - that makes a difficult problem much worse.
>>
>> --dave
>> W5DT
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Jeff Albrecht <jeffa at rodaw.com> <jeffa at rodaw.com>
>> *To:* greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 7, 2016 1:42 PM
>> *Subject:* [GreenKeys] Removing old labels from ASR 33
>>
>> I'm trying without much success to remove some old sticky backed labels
>> from both metal and plastic parts of an ASR 33 I'm working on.
>>
>> I've been trying 'goo gone' this morning but these labels seem baked on
>> for several decades. They are barely budging. I'd be at the elbow grease
>> for 24 hours and still have a long way to go.
>>
>> Anyone have some tips and tricks for a more effective removal procedure?
>>
>>   - jeffa KF7CRU
>>
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