[GreenKeys] Removing old labels from ASR 33

[drlegendre .]

One big problem with removing old adhesive labels is what is known, in the
industry, as 'FUWT' - or - Fscked Up With Tape.

This can occur with labels that have been applied to not only plastic and
painted surfaces, but to almost bare metal (anodized aluminum is a good
one) as well. Organic acids in the adhesive (and paper masking tape is THE
WORST for this) will bite right into the surface, to the point that the
label and surface become one hard, dry and immovable homogeneous substance.

Woe onto thee, that suffer the FUWT. There easy ways around are few to
none, and often only hours of painstaking manual work - followed by careful
polishing / refinishing of the underlying surface - will be your only exit.

First go-to is always a water-based solution, with a good cleaner like
Simple Green or even Dawn.

Otherwise, I use 90% isopropyl, Energine / Ronsonol or a tri-chlor /
per-chlor family solvent such as brake cleaner or CRC Lectra Motive. As
ever "Test first in an inconspicuous place"!


On Sat, May 7, 2016 at 6:30 PM, Bruce Gentry <ka2ivy at verizon.net> wrote:

> Brake fluid also dissolves many adhesives and paints. It's out of the
> question if the part you want to clean is painted, but if it's colored
> plastic, try it on a hidden test spot first, giving it a day or so to
> work.  Model railroaders use it  to remove paint from models they wish to
> repaint, and it doesn't harm the plastic. It does have to be cleaned off
> afterward with soap and hot water before repainting.
>
>       Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY
>
>
> On 5/7/16 7:06 PM, David Tumey via GreenKeys wrote:
>
> Jeff,
>
> I had to remove some sub-base (hardpan) labels without destroying them so
> they could be re-applied after repainting.  In addition to removing the
> labels I had to remove the glue so I could use a pressure sensitive contact
> adhesive for re-application.
>
> One trick that seemed to provide assistance was to CAREFULLY heat the
> labels with a low-wattage heat gun.  This helped to soften the glue enough
> that the label could be peeled without destroying it.  It worked
> particularly well with the foil labels.
>
> Remember to test any solvent on an inconspicuous part of the plastic parts
> before using it - make sure your chemicals do not adversely react to the
> plastics - that makes a difficult problem much worse.
>
> --dave
> W5DT
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Jeff Albrecht <jeffa at rodaw.com> <jeffa at rodaw.com>
> *To:* greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 7, 2016 1:42 PM
> *Subject:* [GreenKeys] Removing old labels from ASR 33
>
> I'm trying without much success to remove some old sticky backed labels
> from both metal and plastic parts of an ASR 33 I'm working on.
>
> I've been trying 'goo gone' this morning but these labels seem baked on
> for several decades. They are barely budging. I'd be at the elbow grease
> for 24 hours and still have a long way to go.
>
> Anyone have some tips and tricks for a more effective removal procedure?
>
>   - jeffa KF7CRU
>
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