[GreenKeys] M15 How to disable unshift-on-space?
Ed Sharpe Archivist for SMECC via GreenKeys
greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
Sat Sep 19 02:05:55 EDT 2015
This 15 has a really nice white ceramic fuse holder in it. I have one
other UPI unit that was from out of state I have not really looked hard
at so it my have the screw in type too. I stand corrected on the KOT
UPI model 15... it too has the screw in base fuses as well....
as thus... ( had a picture on the server!)
In a message dated 9/18/2015 10:42:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com writes:
I wish I had been paying more attention; I saw Fusetrons for sale
somewhere unexpected just recently. I think it was Home Depot. There are still
some homes with fuse boxes that use these. I think the ordinances in Los
Angeles require homes to have circuit breakers and not fuses. Its certainly so
for rental units but I am not sure about private homes. In any case
Fusetrons seem to still be around.
I have seen other old electronic equipment with conventional Edison screw
base fuses. Most later equipment uses cartridge style fuses in clip fuse
holders. I think even Radio Shack has fuse clips. The fuse holders for screw
base fuses are nothing more than ceramic lamp holders. Fusetrons also go
in these but with an adaptor to accept the special thread that keeps you
from putting in the wrong sized fuse. The adaptors can't be removed without
destroying them.
If Teletype did not install fuses its possible UPI did in order to protect
the machine and perhaps also to avoid running afoul of ordinances.
On 9/18/2015 10:20 PM, Ed Sharpe Archivist for SMECC via GreenKeys wrote:
adding this to public archive as here is my value for the upi unit
which I took home to clean lube and adj.
my other units have anything from nothing to a regular looking
fuse and holder that looks like one used inside a radio.
as to the value I am not there right now.but the UPI recent 15 ((HA
You can buy 4 for 70 bucks?!?!?!?
here is a new listing for my fusetron fuse by another mfr... someone
may want to educate us on valuses needed
(http://www.zoro.com/i/G3449686/) * _Fuse, 3-2/10A, T, 125VAC,
Screw-In, PK4_ (http://www.zoro.com/i/G3449686/)
* $70.25
* BUSSMANN
* G3449686T-3-2/10
In a message dated 9/18/2015 9:41:24 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
_drlegendre at gmail.com_ (mailto:drlegendre at gmail.com) writes:
Ed,
Have had the fuses replaced with +what+ ?? ;-)
On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 11:14 PM, <_COURYHOUSE at aol.com_
(mailto:COURYHOUSE at aol.com) > wrote:
our latest UPI ro 15 has the screw in fuse! all other 15s we have
had the fuses replaced.
Ed# _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org/)
In a message dated 9/18/2015 8:59:38 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
_drlegendre at gmail.com_ (mailto:drlegendre at gmail.com) writes:
Wow, so the household fuse is correct - that's just nuts! Maybe I'll pull
it and bypass with a 1A slow-blow and maybe a CIL to deal with inrush
currents. The present arrangement just isn't what I'd call proper 'protection'..
In other news, I think I've corrected the aberrant behavior. And yes, it
does seem like it's all down to that very fine clearance between the cutout
lever and the vertical extension of the SP function lever. I added a few
turns of solid metal foil tape to the little dog-leg on the end of the cutout
lever, to reduce the clearance to nearly nil.. maybe 0.002 or so.
And the USOS is gone, at least for now. Obviously I have a lot more to
learn about this mechanism, but for now, I'm stunned that such a tiny little
gap could allow the unwanted behavior. My hunch is that something else,
somewhere, is either improperly adjusted, improperly installed, or just plain
worn. Very surprising, but again, I have much to learn.
I will post a pic of the connector box in a few minutes. But for now, the
machine is behaving as I'd like... =)
On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 10:09 PM, Jim Haynes <_jhhaynes at earthlink.net_
(mailto:jhhaynes at earthlink.net) > wrote:
All the ones I've seen use the screw-type household fuse, except it's
an odd value like 6 1/4 amp slow-blow. Remember that the motor draws
much more starting current than running current. Also some installations
include a 120VDC power supply, and there is often a convenience outlet
on the side of the base where the repair guy can plug in a soldering
iron or a light fixture. Not that I'd want to be soldering on the wiring
while it is plugged into the power line.
The bare machine doesn't care about polarity. Those which include a
polar relay on the base do. And there are some variables like a motor
control relay that is controlled by polarity.
Can you send a picture of the Bell System box you are talking about?
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Richard Knoppow
_1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com_ (mailto:1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com)
WB6KBL
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