[GreenKeys] [Bulk] Re: is this stuff any good?yes, no ? Kano's -, Kroil unruster

[Ralph Mowery]

The stuff is called Ed's Red.  
To keep everyone from looking it up , here is an origional copy of a message Ed sent to people on the FIDO net years ago, before the internet.

Ed's Red" Revisited... It Still Works...

By Ed Harris         Rev. 5-9-94

A year or so ago in these pages you may have seen my bore cleaner
recipe, and thought it was a neat idea, but you never tried it
and lost the recipe.  Several years after first concocting this
stuff, my friends and I still think it's the best thing since
smokeless powder!  So I summarize it again briefly for the
passing parade that didn't get it the first time...

I did this because I got disgusted with the high price of rifle
bore cleaner.  I knew there was no technical reason why you could
not mix your own with common hardware store ingredients which
would be inexpensive, and effective, and provide reasonable
corrosion protection and adequate lubrication.

The "recipe" is based on proven principles and incorporates two
polar and two nonpolar ingredients.  It is based upon a formula
in Hatcher's Notebook, Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18, but
substituting equivalent modern materials.  I had the help of an
organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no
"surprises"  The original Hatcher recipe called for equal parts
of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and
optionally 200 grams of lanolin added per liter.

Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized
kerosene.  We use K-1 kerosene of the type normally sold for
indoor space heaters.   An inexpensive and effective substitute
for the sperm oil is found in Dexron IIe automatic transmission
fluid.  Prior to about 1950 that most ATF's were sperm oil based,
but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision
instruments.  With the great demand for automatic transmission
autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce
ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became
the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today.  The additives in
ATFs which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants,
make it highly suitable for our intended purpose.

There isn't anything in Ed's Red which will chemically remove
copper fouling, but it does a better job on carbon residue than
anything out there.  Several users have told me, that with
exclusive use of "ER" does reduce the buildup of copper fouling,
and that it does appear to remove it if you let it "soak" so the
surfactants will do the job, though you may have to be patient.

The lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, and provides
better residual lubrication and corrosion protection for longer
term storage.  Mix some yourself.  I know it will work as well
for you as it does for me.

CONTENTS:     Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II or IIe ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, or Stoddard Solvent,
  Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9 (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, aka
Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation.  Use a clean 1 gallon metal or
chemical-resistant PET pr PVC plastic container.  Do NOT use
HDPE, as it is breathable abnd the acetone will evaporate.  Also
ER will eat HDPE in about 6 months, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first.  Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed.  If you incorporate
the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double
boiler, taking precautions against fire and pour it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner
mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, about 4 ozs. of the 50-50
ATF/kerosene for use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.  This can be
done without impairing the effectiveness of the resulting mix.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

                     Ed's Red Bore Cleaner:

1.   Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear.
     Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is
     still warm to the touch from firing.  Saturate a cotton
     patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it
     through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be
     a snug fit.  Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
     back into the bore.

2.   Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore
     from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area
     forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the
     patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute
     to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.

3.   For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns,
     leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with
     bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits.  This
     is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine
     use.

4.   Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to
     flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red.  Let the
     patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the
     bore.  If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will
     protect it from rust for up to 30 days.   If the lanolin is
     incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm
     from rust for up to two years.  For longer term storage I
     recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute.
     "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

5.   Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing
     the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel
     finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood
     finishes).

6.   Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore
     and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably
     sized brush or jag.  First shot point of impact usually will
     not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as
     described.

7.   I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is
     used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is
     unnecessary after use of black powder, Pyrodex or chlorate
     primers.  If hot water cleaning is used, you should be sure
     to flush thoroughly with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting
     which could result from residual moisture.  It is ALWAYS
     good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using
     chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all
     the residue out.

LABEL AND OBLIGATORY SAFETY WARNINGS:

                                    RIFLE BORE CLEANER
                                         CAUTION:
                                   HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED.
                               KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: drlegendre . 
  To: Jeffrey D Angus 
  Cc: Green Keys 
  Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 7:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] [Bulk] Re: is this stuff any good?yes, no ? Kano's -, Kroil unruster




  I've heard of, but never tried the Fred's Red concoction.. what are its supposed properties and uses? I also saw the comment about "ATF replacing whale oil in the original formula" - was that a joke? If not, what "original formula" are you referring to - a discontinued commercial product? 



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