[GreenKeys] is this stuff any good?yes, no ? Kano's -, Kroil unruster

[Scott Johnson]

Here's my method for stuck set screws: 
 Place a hex key, or Bristol (as appropriate) in the screw, grip it at the
end with pliers, and apply a 50-100W soldering iron to the wrench, as close
to the setscrew as you dare (don't burn or melt the knob), after a minute or
so, apply gentle torque to the wrench, the screw should move.  This
technique has worked for me every time I have used it.  
BTW, Dextron ATF is miscible in Acetone, you may have had type F, which I
have never tried.

Scott W7SVJ

-----Original Message-----
From: GreenKeys [mailto:greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Roy
Morgan
Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2015 8:43 AM
To: GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] is this stuff any good?yes, no ? Kano's -, Kroil
unruster


On Jun 5, 2015, at 5:32 PM, Ed Sharpe Archivist for SMECC via GreenKeys
<greenkeys at mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> IS POWER STEERING FLUID  GOOD  FOR TTY LUBE?

Absolutely not.  Power steering fluid is meant for completely different
service.

There have been reports of a penetrating fluid home made recipe with 50-50
Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone.  I tried that once and the acetone
and ATF did NOT mix or dissolve in each other.  It's quite possible that the
original tests were done with an earlier type of ATF than what I had.  Prior
to that I had never run in to any liquid that acetone would not dissolve in.

The original report appeared in the magazine Machinists Workshop (details
below, from the antique tractor list, the members of which deal with really
rusty stuff). The reported results show the ATF and Acetone mixture to be
significantly better than any other product tested.  Mine did not work.

By the way I did that test in an attempt to get the knob set screws loose on
an RBB receiver.  They are still stuck. I'll try Kroil next.

By the way #2:  The toughest thing I had to unstick in a Model 15 teletype
was an actuator bar at the bottom of the mechanism that was involved in the
shift-unshift action.  The bar had a sleeve on one end that pivoted on a
shaft about 5/8 inch long.  No attempts with oil or penetrating fluid
(likely liquid wrench) freed the thing up.  I had to hammer a jack knife
blade between the end of the sleeve and the shoulder of the shaft to get it
to move. Once freed up and lubricated, it ran like new.  NOTE: The fellow
who sold me that machine had said "OH, I kept it running nicely with WD-40"!
When he said that, I *nearly* refused to buy the thing.

Roy




Antique Tractor mailing list post:.  
Note that the reported results are in units of force, not torque, but we
should forgive them for that.

	From: 	gdotsly at watchtv.net
	Subject: 	[AT] Penetrating Oil Test
	Date: 	April 12, 2010 9:33:40 AM EDT
	To: 	at at lists.antique-tractor.com
	Reply-To: 	at at lists.antique-tractor.com

   Friend of mine sent this interesting test result.  Gonna have to try it.
Could have used it this morning.

                       Gene

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out
torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test
of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to
remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ............ ......... 516 pounds

WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............ ..214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it
with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good
as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Roy Morgan
k1lky68 at gmail.com
K1LKY Since 1958

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