[GreenKeys] Cleaning the 28KSR

[Pete Lancashire]

So far I have found one good use for WD-40. I was given a 33, "only"
200 miles away.

On the way home one Pacific NW winter day (as in constantly rainy). I
put it inside a plastic trash
bag then laid it in the bed of my pickup truck. About 1/2 the way home
it proceeded to slide out of the
bag to the other side of the trucks bed, I had not noticed for quite
some time It was drenched.
It was still over 100 miles to home base.

I amazingly remembered a couple exits in front of me there was a
Lowe's or Home Depot. I pulled into
the parking lot, bought a 3 pack of WD-40. Back in the parking lot, I
tilted the 33 on to its side
and emptied two of the cans. Water Displacement 40(th attempt to get
it right) did its job.

-pete





On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 10:20 AM, John Nagle <nagle at animats.com> wrote:
>> From:DLe9480907 at aol.com
>> Subject: [GreenKeys] Cleaning the 28KSR
>>
>> Well I have been cleaning the lose dirt and dust of  (Shop Vac and Low
>> pressure air Blow gun) and have gotten the typing unit out I see no mice
>> dropping or anything real nasty just Oklahoma dust and TTY  Oil kinda  like a
>> lite paste dirt.  what the best way to clean the puppy  up? I  have lots of
>> solvent, Blue shower , liquid wrench,  WD40, Simple  Green, and Tri soda
>> phosphate. What do you all think Best ? Thanks Darryl  WA5TOO
>
>     You can see my refurbishing projects here:
>
>        http://www.aetherltd.com/refurbishing.html
>
>     My general approach is to remove the electrical parts (easy with the
> older machines, not so easy with the Model 28) and soak in Simple Green
> as a first step.  This is a low-risk operation and will remove dirt and
> old oil.  Simple Green is relatively cheap, available at Home Depot,
> non-toxic, non-flammable, and disposable down a drain.  I've soaked
> machines for as long as 3 days.
>
>     If you have serious rust problems, things are more difficult. I've
> used Evapo-Rust successfully, but it shouldn't be used unless absolutely
> necessary, because it will strip the Parkerizing anti-rust treatment
> off the parts.  Remember, full immersion in Evapo-Rust is necessary;
> at the liquid/metal surface, it will remove rust by chelation without
> harming metal.  But at the air/liquid surface, it will cause rust.
> So you need a lot of it, and it's not cheap.  It is, however, reusable.
>
>     Then, of course, you have to do the whole oiling drill, per the
> manual.  I use Valvoline 5-20W synthetic motor oil, lithium grease,
> and, for gears where centrifugal force tends to throw off grease,
> Lucas Red-n-Tacky Grease.
>
>     Don't use WD-40. That's for stuck bolts, not machinery.
>
>                                        John Nagle
>
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