[GreenKeys] Cleaning the 28KSR

John Nagle nagle at animats.com
Wed Oct 26 13:20:59 EDT 2011


> From:DLe9480907 at aol.com
> Subject: [GreenKeys] Cleaning the 28KSR
>
> Well I have been cleaning the lose dirt and dust of  (Shop Vac and Low
> pressure air Blow gun) and have gotten the typing unit out I see no mice
> dropping or anything real nasty just Oklahoma dust and TTY  Oil kinda  like a
> lite paste dirt.  what the best way to clean the puppy  up? I  have lots of
> solvent, Blue shower , liquid wrench,  WD40, Simple  Green, and Tri soda
> phosphate. What do you all think Best ? Thanks Darryl  WA5TOO

     You can see my refurbishing projects here:

	http://www.aetherltd.com/refurbishing.html

     My general approach is to remove the electrical parts (easy with the
older machines, not so easy with the Model 28) and soak in Simple Green
as a first step.  This is a low-risk operation and will remove dirt and
old oil.  Simple Green is relatively cheap, available at Home Depot,
non-toxic, non-flammable, and disposable down a drain.  I've soaked
machines for as long as 3 days.

     If you have serious rust problems, things are more difficult. I've
used Evapo-Rust successfully, but it shouldn't be used unless absolutely
necessary, because it will strip the Parkerizing anti-rust treatment
off the parts.  Remember, full immersion in Evapo-Rust is necessary;
at the liquid/metal surface, it will remove rust by chelation without
harming metal.  But at the air/liquid surface, it will cause rust.
So you need a lot of it, and it's not cheap.  It is, however, reusable.

     Then, of course, you have to do the whole oiling drill, per the 
manual.  I use Valvoline 5-20W synthetic motor oil, lithium grease,
and, for gears where centrifugal force tends to throw off grease,
Lucas Red-n-Tacky Grease.

     Don't use WD-40. That's for stuck bolts, not machinery.

					John Nagle



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