[GreenKeys] TELETYPE ASR 28 SELECTOR MAGNETS QUESTION

Thu Nov 10 22:36:55 EST 2011

Hello all.  I havre a question about the selector magnets on my Teletype ASR 28.  

1.  Should the selector magnets be in SERIES or PARALELL and what POLARITY?

2. What Terminal block terminal numbers run the tape punch?  

MR. JONATHAN B. O'REAR

AMATEUR/HAM RADIO COMMUNICATIONS OPERATOR / GENERAL CLASS LICENSED
KD4MPW

NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE (HUNTSVILLE, ALABAMA) SEVERE STORM SPOTTER / ADVANCED LEVEL 

E-MAIL: jonkd4mpw at yahoo.com

WHILE ENJOYING THE WONDERFUL HOBBY OF AMATEUR RADIO, I OFTEN ASK MYSELF, DO I WANT TO LISTEN TO SHORTWAVE RADIO.....OR DO I WANT TO CREATE IT?

JONATHAN B. O'REAR  2010

________________________________
From: "greenkeys-request at mailman.qth.net" <greenkeys-request at mailman.qth.net>
To: greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 12:18 PM
Subject: GreenKeys Digest, Vol 94, Issue 19
Send GreenKeys mailing list submissions to    greenkeys at mailman.qth.netTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit    http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeysor, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to    greenkeys-request at mailman.qth.netYou can reach the person managing the list at    greenkeys-owner at mailman.qth.netWhen replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of GreenKeys digest..."Today's Topics:  1. Re: Molex Connectors and pins (Teletypeparts)  2. Teleprinter over Internet. (Martin)  3. Re: Molex Connectors and pins (Keith Mc)----------------------------------------------------------------------Message: 1Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 12:21:15 -0500 (EST)From: Teletypeparts <teletypeparts at aol.com>Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Molex Connectors and pinsTo: WA5CAB at cs.com, Greenkeys at mailman.qth.netMessage-ID:
 <8CE6DE449162742-C0C-6ACB at webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"I forgot to mention that I solder and then crimp the strain relief with some needle nose pliers to utilize the strain relief and allow them to go into the holes.  If I did a lot of Molex work, I would have a crimper for sure.  I have done a lot of wire wrap in the last 10 years in my part time broadcast work and it works fine if done correctly.  Wayne-----Original Message-----From: WA5CAB <WA5CAB at cs.com>To: Greenkeys <Greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>Sent: Wed, Nov 9, 2011 8:13 pmSubject: Re: [GreenKeys] Molex Connectors and pinsRegardless of whether you solder the wire to the contact or not, if you don't at least crudely crimp them, the contacts cannot be inserted into the connector bodies.  Much better to have at least a cheap crimper and use it.In a message dated 11/9/2011 6:46:25 PM Central Standard Time, teletypeparts at aol.com writes: Good info.  .  I
 said I solder Molex connectors, but then I only do a few a year, so really dont need a crimper.  73's  Wayne-----Original Message-----From: Keith Mc <acti at provide.net>To: k9tty <k9tty at dls.net>Cc: Greenkeys <Greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>Sent: Wed, Nov 9, 2011 2:23 pmSubject: Re: [GreenKeys] Molex Connectors and pins[it sounds like you've had some experience with this...]Uh... you could say that. <grin> I've been doing crimping for many decades now, as both a tech and an Engineer. I also teach it every year at various high schools in my area, to my HS robotics teams' Electrical Group members.(...Trust me, I've ruined my fair share of pins over the years, to finally master the finer points of doing it. :-)DR HOUSE <k9tty at ...> wrote: > I agree,  It does take some talent to get them installed well. > It helps a lot to have the correct tools.  I do not trust myself to crimp > them properly so I carefully fold the insulation tabs and solder the pins.> I have
 heard other folks giving up on the Molex connectors completely and> changing them out to RCA phono and WECo 310 TRS jacks and 303 TS Jacks.> However you must not leave any open holes, less the mice get inside...> In most cases patience is a virtue.Interesting.  FYI, studies have shown that *proper* crimping can actually form a BETTER and more reliable connections than soldering.  Just like with Wire-Wrapping, during crimping compression you can actually achieve a microscopic metal-to-metal weld.The REAL trick is getting ahold of a DECENT crimping tool of the RIGHT type, and understanding the concept of (and how to execute) the "Tulip Crimp".NEVER, EVER use the "oval" shaped crimping tools, like you often see sold at auto supply stores.  They make absolutely HORRIBLE crimps.(IMHO, they are why many people give up on crimping...).  What you want is to invest in a DECENT, "heart shaped" Tulip Crimping tool.THIS one handles most of the electronic pin
 crimp sizes we'd be interested in:... http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/63811-1000/WM9999-ND/243789... http://media.digikey.com/photos/Molex/63811-1000.jpgIt's made by GC/Waldom/Molex, and is good for virtually any basic electronic crimp.The Waldom WM9999 is the tool that *I* use for most of my 14-30ga work.  As you can see from the pic, for $35 you get a tool with *12* different sized Tulip Die (heart shaped) positions for crimping.  Automotive and other bigger, power wiring are MUCH different animals,and require a different kind of tool altogether.  They should be done with aDimple-Style tool, a third type of tool (which we can discuss later, if you wish...)Next, you have to understand the concept of a Tulip Crimp.Most crimp pins are "swaged".  IOW, stamped from flat plate stock, then folded up origami-style, by again stamping in a series of dies.The pin will have TWO U-shaped sections.... The one closest to the pin tip is for the bare
 wire, to connect electrically to the pin.... The one at the back end accepts the INSULATED wire, as a Strain Relief.Attaching this pin will require TWO crimps, using DIFFERENT sizes of die on your tool.Strip the wire according to the pin's specs.  You will expose JUST enough of the bare wire so when the wire is positioned in the pin for the strainrelief to grab the insulated end, the bare wire will just BARELY overextendbeyond the wire crimping zone.  Too much bare wire and the strain relief won't work, or strands could flare out and touch other things.  Too little wire exposed, and you may catch insulation in the wiringcrimp while trying to do the first crimp, or not have enough bare wire to grab.Also make sure the end is CLEAN and shiny.  If too oxidized, clip off theend of the wire and try again.  Most of the time oxidation is limited to the first fraction of an inch of long exposed wire on the reel.  If it is still oxidized after cutting an
 inch up, use a foldover of very fine sandpaper to pinch-and-pull to "shine it up" a bit. This insures a good electrical connection.We will start with the BARE wire crimp.  After doing it correctly, we THEN do the STRAIN RELIEF crimp.In making a Tulip Crimp, ORIENTATION is essential.  Start by placing the empty pin with its U in the "base side" of the Heart Die.The two ends of the U are now facing the double curve of the other side of the die.  If the flare of the U is too wide to enter the outer edges of the other sideof the die (the "double curve" side), you may have to first squeeze the two sides of the U together slightly, to make them parallel.  You can do this with either a pair of needle nose pliers, or it can be done with a gentle touch by placing the U facing sideways on the "two flats" portion of the tool, and giving it a GENTLE squeeze, until they JUST become parallel.Now, with the U of the electrical crimp in the base of the Heart,
 squeeze JUST enough to grasp and hold the pin firmly in place (NOT crimping!), so you can insert the wire.  IMPORTANT:  The back end of the electrical crimp zone should now be FLUSH with the surface edge of the tool!IF everything is right, you can now insert the prepared wire, and the insulation will "bottom out" just shy of the electrical crimp zone.(Execute the BARE wire crimp)  SQUEEZE HARD.... Pause... Release...Looking from the end, you should now have a HEART SHAPED CRIMP.The two ends of the U should have followed  the curves of the double curve,causing them to CURL BACK on itself.  This causes the two ends to turn 180 degrees, and jam themselves back INTO the wire bundle, while the die holds the sides together to keep them from expanding.The top now looks like "two bumps", just like a Tulip Flower (hence the name).If done correctly, you should now be able to tug on the wire slightly,and it won't come out.If this didn't work (eg the wire is
 still loose), you may have used the wrong die for the selected wire size.  You can sometimes SAVE this by CAREFULLY moving the entire assembly to another die (typically one step smaller), and squeezing again.  Again, BEFORE squeezing make sure your orientation is the same as before!Next, we do the Strain Relief Crimp, with a slightly LARGER die.Depending on the thickness of the insulation, move one or two steps LARGER in die size.  Repeat the above directions as to orientationin the tool.  My Trick - Since adjacent sized dies on the tool are alternating in orientation, "The Move" consists of quickly FLIPPING the toolbetween the two crimps.  Spin-flip the tool 180 degrees in your squeezing hand  while holding the wire&pin still in the other hand.  Done correctly, it allows you to "crimp, flip, crimp" in succession.  <grin>HOWEVER, this time, for the strain relief crimp we will squeeze LIGHTLY.  The point is not to PIERCE it, but only to CURL the
 U back to wrap and HUG the wire to add support.  In fact, if you try to use the samedie as before (or squeeze too hard),  you WILL fracture, or even shear off the wire entirely!  Therefore DIE SIZE IS CRITICAL here.  It is better to err on the LARGE size while getting used to executing the Strain Relief Crimp,because you can always step back down in size and repeat it, if necessary.On some pins, the strain relief U is way too long for the diameterof the insulation.  If this is true,  you can shift this to an Overwrap Crimp by using needle nose pliers to fold the two U legs first, and THEN crimp it.  This forces the two sides to slide around each other, and keeps it from forming a High-U Tulip with an air gap under the arches (which doesn't hold against strain very well).If both crimps were done right, you are now left with a correctly crimped AND strain relieved wire, ready to insert into the housing.  (<snoopy dance> Yea!)There is one exception
 I've found...  Trying to crimp a 22gauge wire ontoa pin to fit 0.100" center housings.  You sometimes have to do a THIRD,VERY light crimp on the strain relief crimp with the next size smaller die, to just --slightly-- compress the insulation in order to get it to fit into the housings.One more thing... On many Molex pins, the original swage-formingprocess may leave the two tabs that keep it retained in the housing too close to the pin's surface to properly do their job of grabbing the housing.So, to fix that I always make sure I GENTLY fan them out just a bit with a dental tool, before attempting to insert them into the housing.  This makes sure both tabs will engage properly.But be VERY careful!! More than once I've had a weak tab break off in my hand by trying to flare them too far, or with too much force.  (...mumble grumble...)Bottom line:  Proper crimping is a function of the RIGHT kind of tool(tulip), proper pin and wire prep, using the RIGHT
 sized dies for the pin and wire combo, AND using the RIGHT squeezing touch...  All of this experience comes with a LOT of practice (and ruined pins... ;-).So again, please make sure you get a few extra pins in your order...Does this all make sense?- Keith Mc.Robert & Susan Downs - Houstonwa5cab dot com (Web Store)MVPA 9480 ______________________________________________________________reenKeys mailing listome: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeyselp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmost: mailto:GreenKeys at mailman.qth.netThis list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netlease help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html______________________________________________________________reenKeys mailing listome: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeyselp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmost: mailto:GreenKeys at mailman.qth.netThis list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netlease help support this email list:
 http://www.qsl.net/donate.html-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/greenkeys/attachments/20111110/b679fb2c/attachment-0001.html ------------------------------Message: 2Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 18:13:42 +0000From: Martin <strowger at aeolian-hall.myzen.co.uk>Subject: [GreenKeys] Teleprinter over Internet.To: Greenkeys at mailman.qth.netMessage-ID: <4EBC1456.50300 at aeolian-hall.myzen.co.uk>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowedI wonder if anyone on this list has tried to achieve teleprinter over Internet?I have a system using 80 volt to RS232 signaling conversion and then using ordinary 200 baud V21 data modems to exchange data.I have very successfully sent Telex from a message generator to my No 15 over my U13 telephone exchange at home, and also over the BT network, at least as far as my local exchange and back (2.5 miles each way), all error free over a few dozen
 lines of quick brown fox. So I have no reason to doubt the system should work further, as well as data modems ever did, especially since digitisation of the phone network.However, I am disappointed with CNET. My suspicions seem to be well founded, in that over the Internet timing gets screwed up such that the error rate is very high. In printing a few dozen lines of The quick brown fox, the chances of getting one line without error are small, and many are completely garbled. My broadband connection may not help, as I only get 500k download and worse upload, but generally voice connections have sounded pretty good, but obviously they are not as good as they sounded!.I have used gateway facilities,  so its a double journey and in either case the problem was much the same, but I suspect the problem will be the same even in one hop. Even leaving the circuit standing at Mark there is a dropout several times a minute causing an error print.Martin-- --CNET
 Lashford 230http://www.ckts.info/192/ukThis Email personally scripted by: MartinThe Strowger aficionado's site is at http://www.aeolian-hall.myzen.co.uk------------------------------Message: 3Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 18:18:26 +0000 (GMT)From: Keith Mc <acti at provide.net>Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Molex Connectors and pinsTo: herbert3 at centurytel.netCc: Greenkeys at mailman.qth.netMessage-ID: <1870433535.66125.1320949106696.JavaMail.mail at webmail10>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8Lee Mushel <herbert3 at ...> wrote: > Keith,> What a wonderful contribution to the "art."  And I have printed your comments.  Thanks! (Glad to help...) But does it make sense?  I know a video or pics would be better, but I don't have that available now.These tools never come with decent instructions.  I've had to learn it the hard way, over years of experiment and practice.  If someone ever finds a decent link to a video or pictorial page that describes this process, please post
 it here!  I'd love to find a nice wall chart with pictures, for my students.  Pete Lancashire <pete at ...> wrote: > I want to 2nd the  pause in squeeze/pause/release. I usually sqeeze ->> pause->squeeze->squeeze->release.An excellent point, Pete.  I forgot to mention this.  Please add this paragraph inline, to my description:------------> Keith wrote:> > (Execute the BARE wire crimp)  SQUEEZE HARD.... Pause... Release...If the electrical wire crimp zone is LONGER than the thickness of yourcrimp tool, you should now make a series of "nibble crimps" along the zone by repeating this: ... "Release.  Advance it SLIGHTLY (about 50% of the thickness of your tool,without rotation of the wire).  Crimp again, HARD.  Repeat as necessary."Treat it like eating an ear of corn... Nibble along the contact zone with the crimp tool, making micro-crimps up and down its length, until the entire length of the electrical contact crimp zone is well formed.(Nibble,
 nibble, nibble... Yum! ;-)> Looking from the end, you should now have a HEART SHAPED CRIMP.> [...etc...]------------Pete also wrote:> From time to time on the E a ratchet crimper for Molex pins will show up,> if your persistent you can get one for $20-$30. The negative is they have> only one or two sizes per die.Hmmm... I try to be VERY careful with "ratcheting tools" that force you to complete a full pressure cycle before it lets you release the object.  They CAN make life easier at times, but they can also do some SERIOUS physical damage if you ever get a finger caught in them!  Even those with release tabs sometimes make you ADD more pressure before it will allow the tab to actuate.  (YOW!)So, if you DO get a ratcheting tool, be SURE it not only comes with an "emergency release tab" on it, but that does NOT require you to add more pressure to actuate it.  (I always test this kind of tool for this before purchasing it, by clamping it on a nail or
 a tube, and seeing what it takes to disengage it... :-)IF it doesn't have a release tab already, then at least investigate asap HOW to unlock it mid-cycle with a paperclip or something (well before you NEED to know this! :-), and DOCUMENT the procedure in its tool case.Trust me... It only takes getting a finger caught ONCE in a non-releasingtool, and being forced to try to saw the @#$# tool's pivot apart (without crushing your finger, cutting it off or burning it with cutting heat), to learn this! <grin>I'm also a parent.  I refuse to have a tool around here that can't be released mid-cycle without adding even more damage to a caught finger.IF you are a machinist-type you can sometimes mod the tool to ADD a release tab or cable.  But that's a pain, and sometimes might require a full re-engineering of the tool. Your mod options are normally:  1) Drill a hole in the ratchet arm, and add a paperclip or cable to it.This makes a "pull string" to the tool.
 (Add a bead to the end, for grabbing.)2) Take out the ratchet plate, lay it on a piece of similar thickness metal,and trace and cut out a new one, with a finger tab.  Replace it in the tool.I've only done this a couple of times, on vendor-custom tools where an alternative tool simply wasn't available.  ...and yes, that foresight HAS come in handy (more than once in fact). <grin>- Keith Mc.--"Whenever you invent something to be Idiot-Proof, someone invents a better Idiot..."------------------------------_______________________________________________GreenKeys mailing listGreenKeys at mailman.qth.nethttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeysEnd of GreenKeys Digest, Vol 94, Issue 19*****************************************
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