[GreenKeys] Cleaning stuff, etc..

Mon Nov 26 16:32:50 EST 2007

I did neglect to mention that before washing the mechanism, I blow off any 
crud with 100-psi compressed air.

After washing the mechanism, (before setting it in the sun), I again blow 
off any visible water with air.  Any remaining water droplets (eg: inside 
the motor), then evaporate pretty quickly.

I have never worried about the platen either during washing, and have never 
had any problems.   I have had decent results later cleaning the platen 
with a cloth soaked in mineral spirits -- there is also a commercial 
chemical for platen restoration, but I have not tried it. If the platen has 
hardened to the point that mineral spirits won't restore a bit of 
rubberieness (just made that word up) to the platen, I have my doubts that 
another chemical would help, but I'm only guessing.  Anybody try platen 
chemicals?

Now if only there was a way to reverse the effects of plastic 
yellowing/deterioration for the later machines' cases...  Of course, you 
could always paint a yellowed 33 black, and say it is the machine filmed 
for Andromeda Strain.  Or just remove the cover, add a magnifying glass, 
and say it was used in Terry Gilliam's Brazil.

gil

>gil smith wrote:
>
>>Gentlemen:
>>I take my machines to the self-serve car wash.  I use the spray nozzle, 
>>first with plain high-pressure rinse, to dislodge dust and big bits of 
>>crud, then the "engine cleaner" soak to soften grease, then finish with 
>>the high-pressure rinse again.  Costs about two bucks.  If you are 
>>concerned about the engine-cleaner chemicals, then you can skip that step 
>>(but I have never seen any chemical residue remaining, nor any damage to 
>>anything).
>>I have not been concerned about the motor, magnets, or wiring -- 
>>everything just gets sprayed, and comes out nice and clean.  Just watch 
>>that you don't lose any parts like pop-off keycaps.
>>I do this in the summer, so I can set the mechanism in the 100+ degree 
>>Arizona sun, to dry in under an hour and not leave and residual rust.
>>In cooler or wetter climes, you could take Jack's covert approach, and 
>>just put it in the oven when the wife is not looking.
>>Needs complete oiling, of course.
>>gil
>>
>>At 07:16 AM 11/26/2007, Gregory W. Moore wrote:
>>
>>>Would someone please enlighten this forgetful person what you use to 
>>>clean ye olde ancient M14ROTR, as well as other equipment, since I no 
>>>longer have access to a dipping/cleaning tank. OPNOTE; I officially 
>>>became a geriatric the other day, when I recieved notice that my ins co 
>>>had paid a hospital bill for when I was admitted to "Main Line 
>>>Geriatrics"  I guess this gives me free reign to forget stuff. This is a 
>>>good time to turn to on repairs and cleaning, since the Medicos think I 
>>>have now developed Meniere's syndrome, hearing loss, vertigo, etc the 
>>>whole 9 yards, and have kinda forced me QRT until they have finished 
>>>their tests, since noise exacerbates this whole debacle  LOL.
>>>
>>>That thing has so much crud on the code bars, I have to dissassemble 
>>>each and every bar and clean between them, before reasssembly.  IF I had 
>>>access to the ole cleaning tank, it would be a breeze, but 
>>>unfortunately, I have to do this one at home, without overly offending 
>>>the XYL, protecting my furballs, and not causing the necessity of having
>>>"Moon suited" personnel called due to neighbor's wrath, thereby 
>>>discovering things of which they have no need to know (cleaning 
>>>chemicals, reloading supplies,(including lead, #2 alloy, Linotype as 
>>>well as some custom alloys (20/1) and mass quantities of TTY stuff piled 
>>>to ceiling level (Right Ron?) you've been there and seen it ==hi==.
>>>
>>>Ok Don, you wouldn't happen to have an outer case for a M14ROTR, or know 
>>>where one could be found? Cheep Cheep --hi--
>>>
>>>73 de Greg "GW" Moore WA3IVX/NNN0BVN
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>>
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