[GreenKeys] Cleaning stuff, etc..

Mon Nov 26 16:00:58 EST 2007

I'm wondering and hoping that you all when cleaning these machines in 
such a manner also remove the platen.  Try and find a replacement these 
days.

I used to clean the NWS machines by removing the platen, motor and 
printing ribbon first.  Then took the printer to the "laundry" room and 
set it in the sink.  Ran hot water, and i do mean hot water of it till 
it was clean.  Blow dry it or dry it out the best you can with what you 
have and then give it a nice lube job.  Run the main shaft around a few 
times to make sure everything is still in place, give it another shot of 
oil, a nice coating makes it shine and purr when it's running, and then 
put it back in service for some on line testing.

Course if you've got another printer around that you can put in service 
while the one you just cleaned drys out and gets oiled and greased up, 
your ahead of the game.

Larry
W0OGH

gil smith wrote:

> Gentlemen:
> 
> I take my machines to the self-serve car wash.  I use the spray nozzle, 
> first with plain high-pressure rinse, to dislodge dust and big bits of 
> crud, then the "engine cleaner" soak to soften grease, then finish with 
> the high-pressure rinse again.  Costs about two bucks.  If you are 
> concerned about the engine-cleaner chemicals, then you can skip that 
> step (but I have never seen any chemical residue remaining, nor any 
> damage to anything).
> 
> I have not been concerned about the motor, magnets, or wiring -- 
> everything just gets sprayed, and comes out nice and clean.  Just watch 
> that you don't lose any parts like pop-off keycaps.
> 
> I do this in the summer, so I can set the mechanism in the 100+ degree 
> Arizona sun, to dry in under an hour and not leave and residual rust.  
> In cooler or wetter climes, you could take Jack's covert approach, and 
> just put it in the oven when the wife is not looking.
> 
> Needs complete oiling, of course.
> 
> gil
> 
> 
> At 07:16 AM 11/26/2007, Gregory W. Moore wrote:
> 
>> Would someone please enlighten this forgetful person what you use to 
>> clean ye olde ancient M14ROTR, as well as other equipment, since I no 
>> longer have access to a dipping/cleaning tank. OPNOTE; I officially 
>> became a geriatric the other day, when I recieved notice that my ins 
>> co had paid a hospital bill for when I was admitted to "Main Line 
>> Geriatrics"  I guess this gives me free reign to forget stuff. This is 
>> a good time to turn to on repairs and cleaning, since the Medicos 
>> think I have now developed Meniere's syndrome, hearing loss, vertigo, 
>> etc the whole 9 yards, and have kinda forced me QRT until they have 
>> finished their tests, since noise exacerbates this whole debacle  LOL.
>>
>> That thing has so much crud on the code bars, I have to dissassemble 
>> each and every bar and clean between them, before reasssembly.  IF I 
>> had access to the ole cleaning tank, it would be a breeze, but 
>> unfortunately, I have to do this one at home, without overly offending 
>> the XYL, protecting my furballs, and not causing the necessity of having
>> "Moon suited" personnel called due to neighbor's wrath, thereby 
>> discovering things of which they have no need to know (cleaning 
>> chemicals, reloading supplies,(including lead, #2 alloy, Linotype as 
>> well as some custom alloys (20/1) and mass quantities of TTY stuff 
>> piled to ceiling level (Right Ron?) you've been there and seen it ==hi==.
>>
>> Ok Don, you wouldn't happen to have an outer case for a M14ROTR, or 
>> know where one could be found? Cheep Cheep --hi--
>>
>> 73 de Greg "GW" Moore WA3IVX/NNN0BVN
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>>
>> Happily turning electricity into RF energy and Avgas/JP5/JetA into 
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