[Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Yep, that is my favorite antenna for H.F. fed with open wire line and a balanced tuner. 

 But I never refer to it as a "dipole" since the classic definition of a dipole means it is 1/2 wave long. What you describe is what us O.T.s call a "doublet" or "center fed wire". 

73, Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Emory Schley
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 5:38 PM
Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"


I've found over the years that a McCoy Dipole works pretty well, often MUCH better than expected. What is a McCoy Dipole? Named after Lew McCoy, it follows his rules of construction. "Make it as long as you can, get it as high as you can, and feed it with ladder-line." No math, no measurements, no sweat. But a TUNER (transmatch) is definitely needed.
 
Emory Schley
N4LP
 

Kurt N. Sterba was correct. Textbook antennas aren't always possible, or even needed. If the situation is difficult, any radiator is better than none. However, hams in general are anal animals on the subject of antennas. My attitude has always been what's a db or two among friends, and quite often that is the number we are sweating. But, if you can't make it exactly like Kraus writes, get as close as you can and let your antenna tuner worry about the match and don't think about that extra db.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

------ Original Message ------
From: "Fred Jensen" <k6dgw at foothill.net>
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/29/2017 6:10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

>N6BT famously set up a "phased array" of 3 light bulbs in a V-beam 
>configuration and achieved WAC. He called it "The Illuminator." Kurt N. 
>Sterba [a regular in the old WorldRadio] is correct, the power will go 
>somewhere. My home antenna is a 136' wire strung along the wood fence 
>on electric fence insulators. Fed at the end, no overt counterpoise 
>[the outside of the coax shield handles that]. Not spec'd for 160 but 
>the KAT3 matches it fine. Invisible to HOA. NVIS on 160 and 80, 
>semi-NVIS on 40.
>
>One thing to remember: feeding electrically long wires results in 
>complicated radiation patterns. The higher in frequency you go, the 
>more it's going to squirt your RF in different directions, not all of 
>which point at the DX. But, mine works very well considering it's about 
>1.8 m off the ground.
>
>73,
>
>Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>Sparks NV DM09dn
>Washoe County
>
>On 1/29/2017 10:26 AM, Barry wrote:
>>Wayne,
>> I know what you are saying and agree. In very simple terms, if you 
>>can load it, it will radiate. That was a position that a writer with 
>>the nom de plume of Kurt N Sterba too in a book he wrote. By the 
>>physical law of conservation of energy, it all has to go somewhere.
>>And, that could be heat or radiation. In his book he claims to have 
>>loaded a shopping cart and talked to people.
>>
>> Yes, you can do these things as long as you make good connections and 
>>the tuners can handle it. All of the discussion is how to pick a 
>>length that the tuner will accept. Once there, physics takes over. And 
>>just to prove my point, and yours, I just worked the CQ 160 CW 
>>contest. My antenna was a vertical 20 meter dipole center fed with 
>>open wire. My radio is a K3s. I worked across this country, Canada, 
>>and some DX with this 33' wire antenna that by all rights should have 
>>been over 200'. I would have done better, but my local power company 
>>added another handicap, line noise. Bottom line: Throw some wire up 
>>and see if it can be loaded. If yes, go for it.
>>
>>73,
>>Barry
>>K3NDM
>
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