[Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e

Fri Jan 27 21:38:18 EST 2017

I believe the IMA is still available from unPCBs.com.  That is not part 
of the Rework Eliminators, but a separate product.

If you want to try several different microphones with the K2, it is an 
easy way to do that.  If you have only one microphone that you want to 
use with the K2, it is not necessary - plug the K2 microphone 
configuration header for your desired microphone and let it go at that. 
The IMA is handy for those who want to use microphones from various rigs 
with the K2.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/27/2017 9:14 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:
> The only Re-Work eliminator I found helpful was the Mic connector.  This
> made changing a mic easier, but you had to remove the side panel.  I concur
> with Don's points on the rest.  Only good if you wanted to remove add-ons or
> prep for future. If you build the radio with all the intended parts, then
> just go for it and skip all the headers.  Great radio, a superior kit in so
> many, many ways. And a labor of fun and love.
>
> 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
> Wilhelm
> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:09 PM
> To: Harry Yingst <hlyingst at yahoo.com>; Elecraft Reflector
> <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
>
> Harry and all,
>
> I included the electrical information in the post below, but I failed to
> mention the standoffs.  If you want to include the full "homebrew Rework
> Eliminators", you will have to add the standoffs for each option.  Refer to
> the Elecraft manuals for each option and order the required standoffs and
> mounting hardware if you want to do a complete job.
>
> If you do not want to remove the K2 heatsink when adding options, you should
> order the 2 pin header for P6 (KAT2 manual or KPA100 manual), the standoff
> for the K160RX and the standoff for the K60XV.  Those are the ones that are
> covered by the K2 heatsink.  The other standoffs can be easily added without
> removing the heatsink - just remove the bottom cover.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Harry,
>
> If you are ordering the options you want to include with the K2, there
> is little need for the Rework Eliminators.  There is very little rework
> when adding options - the "Rework" consists mainly of removing the
> jumpers that are normally installed when building up the basic CW K2 and
> removing/changing at most one capacitor for each option (the KNB2
> requires 3 resistors to be changed).  A careful perusal of the
> installation procedure in the manuals for the options that you wish to
> add.  The headers required come with the options that you purchase
> initially.
>
> For those options that you may want to add later, it is a simple matter
> to install the female headers on the RF board and Control Board and use
> wire jumpers, and perhaps a capacitor or two in place of the actual
> rework eliminators.  Download and identify the headers required.
>
> The most complex part of the rework eliminators is the KNB2 and the
> K60XV.  I do not recommend making the board changes (C71 value and
> D19/D20 addition) until you actually have the K60XV option ready to
> install.  The "Rework Eliminator" boards that you need are easily
> fabricated on perfboard and strips of male pins.
>
> For the K160RX, you need only the header and a bent component lead for a
> jumper - stick the jumper wire in the header and do not install W1.
> For the KAF2, you need only the 3 pin and 5 pin female headers mounted
> on the Control Board - do not install the wires for R18 and R19, but
> stick jumper wires made from component leads into the headers.
> For the KNB2, you will need the perfboard and 8 pin male header - on the
> RF board install a 2.7k resistor at R88 and a wire at the R89 location.
> Your plug-in "eliminator" needs 3 resistors - a 470 ohm, a 100 ohm and a
> 680 ohm.  The 470 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 5, the 100 ohm
> resistor goes between pins 1 and 6, and the 680 ohm resistor between
> pins 6 and 5.
> For the KSB2, you need to install 3 pin headers at J9 and J10 and a 12
> pin header at J11.  bend 2 wire jumpers to plug into J9 and J10 - from
> pin 1 to pin 3 (do not install W2 and W3) and on a 12 pin male header
> strip on perfboard solder a .001uF capacitor between pins 7 and 12 - do
> not install C167.
>
> That takes care of all the "homebrew Rework eliminators" except the
> K60XV option.  Since I do not recommend installing that until the K60XV
> option is built and ready to install, I have left that off the list. The
> VFO and PLL R30 voltages change with the addition of the K60XV changes
> and cannot be properly tested until the K60XV option is actually
> installed.  If you want to do a partial install of the K60XV, put a 3
> pin female header at J15 and put the leads of the 4.7pF capacitor into
> pins 1 and 3 of that header rather than soldering it to the RF board.
> You can also install the 8 pin female header at J13 and put a wire
> jumper between pins 3 and 5 (leave out W6 jumper).  BUT change the value
> of C71 and add D19/D20 as well as the coax cable only after you have the
> K60XV option built - that is only one capacitor to change.
>
> If you want to install the headers at P3 and P6, you can do that at any
> time - no jumpers are required - one header is supplied with the KAT2
> option and another with the KBT2 - both are supplied with the KPA100 kit.
>
> So there you have the complete instructions for installing the "Rework
> Eliminators" without buying the full kit.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/27/2017 6:28 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
>>
>> I decided to build another K2 (since I foolishly sold my first one) I
> figured this time around I would use some Rework Eliminators.
>>
>> When I checked unpcb.com I found that they no longer stock them.
>>
>> Does anyone have an unused set with the additional components (full kit)
> that they want to sell?
>>
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