[Elecraft] Dreaded ERR 12V Message

[David Orman]

I would use anti-seize for the threads instead of a normal lubricant, it
can reduce issues between dissimilar metals and reduce galling.

On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 7:09 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
elecraft at mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Guys, if you must add lub to any thread, put a drop on a cloth and wipe
> the threads with it.  Do not over lub the threads.
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>       From: Harry Yingst via Elecraft <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
>  To: "w1gd at aol.com" <w1gd at aol.com>; "don at w3fpr.com" <don at w3fpr.com>; "
> elecraft at mailman.qth.net" <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
>  Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 5:01 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dreaded ERR 12V Message
>
>
> I had a stuck screw on my KPA500 that would not budge I removed
> all but the offending screw then turned the 2d block to loosen it.
>
>
>
>       From: Gerry Kersus via Elecraft <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
>  To: don at w3fpr.com; elecraft at mailman.qth.net
>  Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 7:43 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dreaded ERR 12V Message
>
>  No, these were the stock screws.  I'm surprised they stuck like they
> did.  None of the other black screws have  had a problem and the radio has
> certainly have never been in a high humidity environment.  I will used the
> "little" bit of lubricant when I replace them.
>
>
> 73,
> Gerry, D1GD
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Wilhelm <don at w3fpr.com>
> To: w1gd <w1gd at aol.com>; elecraft <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sun, May 10, 2015 5:39 pm
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dreaded ERR 12V Message
>
>
> Gerry,
>
> I am glad it has worked well for you.
>
> Did you install stainless
> steel screws in the past?  That may be one
> reason for the galling.  Steel into
> aluminum is not usually a problem,
> but it can be at times - it is worse with
> stainless steel than with
> regular steel screws.  The black screws are supposed
> to have a bit of a
> lubricating coating, but it does no harm to give it a
> little bit more
> lubrication - and I do mean a *little* bit - add a drop to the
> screw
> threads and blot the excess off with a paper towel, that is all it
> takes.
> When you replace the 2D connectors and the screws, us a tiny drop of oil
>
> on the threads - remember, you do not want any runoff.
>
> 73,
> Don
> W3FPR
>
>
> On 5/10/2015 4:37 PM, Gerry Kersus via Elecraft wrote:
> > Don,
> >
> This is to provide closure to my problem:
> >
> >
> > I did locate the new
> connectors. After dis-assembly of the K3, I found that the 6 pins on P67B
> on the
> K3 Main board were discolored.  I replaced the 6 pins as well as the
> mating 13x2
> connector J67B on the KPAIO3 board. Even under magnification, I could not
> see
> any discoloration on the P68B connector.  So, I just replaced the 6 pins
> with
> the new gold pin connection and not the J68B.
> >
> >
> > After 48 hours, including
> about 100 contacts in the CQ M contest, everything seems to be normal.
> >
> >
> >
> I did encounter an problem during dis-assembly:  When trying to remove the
> two
> 4-40 pan head screws holding the rear panel to the bottom 2D fasteners,
> neither
> screw would budge.  (There were no problems with any other screws).  I even
> tried my reliable screw extractor, but that didn't work either -- it's
> like the
> screws had galled.  I re-assembled the K3 without those two screws, but I
> will
> need to order two new 2D connectors and 4-40 pan head screws.
> >
> >
>
>
>
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