[Elecraft] K2/10 to K2/100

[Fred Jensen]

On 9/8/2014 11:01 AM, John Fritze wrote:

> Both K2s are totally maxed out with all the options so there is no reason
> to use one over the other.  If I add the KPA100 kit, will the 20 watt tuner
> still be inside

No, it's attached to the top of the K2.

> Will it still be available to use if running less than 20 watts?

QRP to QRO and back is a "Top Swap."  Took me about 5 min until I sold 
the KPA100 and KAT100.  Remove case screws, lift top, disconnect cables, 
set aside.  Fetch other top, connect cables, reinstall top.

Note:  The two small coax cables with the 2-pin Molex connectors [Aux RF 
and 12 VDC] *CAN* be cross connected.  This is unwise, it will short the 
12 VDC.  I recommend you paint the connectors and the mates on the RF 
board different colors.
>
> When I remove the battery, anyone have any idea how often I should put it
> on the charger to maintain the pack?  Should the pack be unplugged for
> storage?

I never had the battery pack.  What kind of batteries are they?

>
> This is a SOTA rig for my XYL and I think she will have an easier time with
> 100 watts and a Buddipole LIPO pack.  She is having a difficult time making
> contacts QRP.
>

If the battery is an A123 LiFePO4 or LiPoly, be sure to fuse the 12 VDC 
leads [see above warning re cross connection].  I've found that 
automobile spade fuses seem to have very low contact resistance.  At 
100W, you're going to draw somewhere in the general vicinity of 14-17 A. 
  LiFePO4's [and LiPoly] batteries are small and light but they have a 
minuscule internal resistance and will deliver a huge slug of current 
into a short, you need to be careful.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org