[Elecraft] My in-progress K1 is ALIVE!!!

[Mike Morrow]

> ...I peaked all the trimmers "by ear" by transmitting 2 watts from my big
> rig (into a dummy load); there must be a more scientific way to do this.

Maybe, but the approach you used is as easy and serviceable as any other method.

> But so far so good. At 5 watts I think what will keep me back is NOT that
> last dB I lose from bad tweeking of the caps!

That tells me you are using the four-band filter board.  Good choice...its
filtering is considerably sharper than that of the two-band filter board.

Any settings that you have established for receive only get these capacitors
into the ballpark for final adjustment for transmit.  **All** of them will
be adjusted again during the transmitter adjustments.  In fact, it is unlikely
you will see much or any power output just using the settings you now have
in place.  The adjustments for establishing output power on each band are
far far more critical than those when adjusting these same capacitors for
receive.  Do not be tempted to make any further filter board adjustments to
peak the receiver after you have established the proper settings for transmit.

> I could not get VFO frequency up to 3.090 by simple spreading of turns in
> L1, I had to remove L1 and remove a turn.

I have *never* heard of this ever being a problem on a K1 unless L1 was wound
with one extra turn (a common problem with toroids, since just sticking wire
through the hole completes the first turn) or the turns were loosely wound
on the toroid core..

> Since removing L1 is a distinct possibility for future builders, maybe a
> note to NOT flush-cut the leads until you are SURE L1 is right.

It is most unlikely that a properly assembled L1 will require subsequent
de-soldering for turns adjustment.

Congratulations on your K1.  The K1 has been my favorite QRP rig since I
built it in November 2000.  I hope you bought the LCD backlight option.

73,
Mike / KK5F