[Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2
Don Wilhelm
w3fpr at embarqmail.com
Mon Jan 26 15:06:11 EST 2009
The first thing you should do when you get back to it Thursday is to put
the bottom cover on (using all 6 screws) if it is not already mounted,
and then run CAL PLL. That should set your tuning straight. Right now
it would appear that you have random data in the EEPROM, and a CAL PLL
run will straighten that out by storing new values.
You might also strongly consider also using CAL FIL to move to each BFO
in turn and change its frequency slightly (set it back to the original
if your filters are already set correctly). Doing that will cause the
K2 to store new values in the EEPROM for the BFO frequencies.
If that does not cure the tuning issue, then please ask again and we can
provide some troubleshooting aid.
73,
Don W3FPR
djmd wrote:
> Yeah, that was more or less it. I remembered that when I did the KX1 I used a
> much bigger tip on the iron, so I switched to that and it worked just like I
> remembered. So now I am definitely hearing the outside world loud and clear.
> However, this has brought to attention a couple new problems.
>
> First of all, very strange noises in certain portions of the band. They seem
> to disappear suddenly while I am tuning. Hard to explain, it's not any kind
> of noise that I have ever heard before... hopefully it's related to this
> problem:
>
> When listening to CW (and SSB) signals and tuning across the band, the pitch
> of the heard signals are staying constant... it's like the frequency is only
> changing every so often, not steadily as I move up and down. A friend is
> saying it's probably a VCO issue. Just to be clear, all VCO voltages were in
> range when I checked them yesterday.
>
> I will be unable to work on the radio until Thursday afternoon, but would
> love to know what I should be checking when I get back. Thanks for all the
> help!
>
>
>
> Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
>
>> If you are having trouble stripping the toroid leads, that is cause to
>> suspect that they are the problem. If you are using the 'solder blob'
>> method, remember to increase the heat on the iron - at least 800 deg F
>> or even 850. Wait until the enamel starts to smoke a bit before moving
>> the lead through the solder blob.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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