[Elecraft] K2 - KIO2 AUX I/O Install

[Don Wilhelm]

Damon,

I am not certain which level of the K2 manual you have, but I checked 
page 100 of the latest manual available for download at the Elecraft 
website and did not find anything like you mention.

If you check page 95 of the latest download version, the DISPLAY button 
function is very well described.

Yes, the real time clock is displayed if the KDSP2 or the KAF2 options 
are installed, if boht are absent, the DISPLAY button alternates between 
frequency and Voltage/Current draw.

73,
Don W3FPR

W4HDM wrote:
> Thanks Don! 
>
>     After your last email I read through the remainder of the manual for the
> install and found that yes the pins are labeled on the schematic on the
> back! Duh. I now understand how these pins are labeled. 
>
> Yes, my K2 had the KAP100 and I removed it with the intention of mounting it
> in the KAT100-2 as a separate unit. For now I have the other top installed
> with the KAT2 and battery option. I still have a ways to go to get this rig
> up to date but I'm working on it!
>
> After connecting the K2 to my PC and turning on the port it was recognized
> by HamRadioDeluxe and seemed to function as it should. 
>
> One last question for the reflector on this install and I should be done.
>
> My K2's Owner's Manual .. page 100 states "Once the host adapter is
> installed you will have three display modes freq/mode, real time clock, and
> voltage/current displays"  Mine only has the original 2 ...no clock. Does
> this option only show up if you have the KDSP2 installed?
>
>  "73"
> Damon 
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3fpr at embarqmail.com] 
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:52 PM
> To: W4HDM
> Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KIO2 AUX I/O Install
>
> Damon,
>
> Here is where things get hard and complicated --
> 2 wide header pins ar numbered differently than ICs.  Start at pin 1, 
> then pin 2 is on the other side of the two rows, pin 3 is next to pin 1, 
> etc.  Net result is that the odd numbered pins are on one side and the 
> even numbered are on the other.  I hesitate to mention that the DBxx 
> series of connectors is numbered differently than either ICs or header 
> pins - sory, but it is a confusing world.
> The one thing that helps is that the Elecraft schematics show the proper 
> numbering of the pins.  Other schematics are not so kind and simply mark 
> the pin number, but show the connector or IC as a block with the pins 
> numbered in some random order.
>
> The pin that is cut off on the header is pin 4 which is unused (pin 1 is 
> at the top of the control board toward the edge).  Your K2 must have had 
> the KPA100 installed at one time, and for that installation, pin 4 is 
> cut off and the connecting ribbon cable is keyed.  Since the KIO2 AUX 
> board cannot be successfully installed upside down and allow the top 
> cover to still be installed, keying of the mating connector is not 
> necessary.
>
> BTW - if you have the KAT2 as well as the KIO2 installed in that K2, the 
> green wire on the KAT2 connector must be at the top.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> W4HDM wrote:
>   
>> Don,
>>
>>      Thanks for your help, yes that was the problem ...my lack of
>> experience! After counting the pins the correct way the voltage is now
>> within specs with a -9.6.
>>
>> My electronics building started just 2 days ago. I went to the local
>> electronics store (Fry's) and purchased a Hakko 936 soldering station and
>>     
> a
>   
>> cheap sounds to lights kit to see if I was capable enough to continue. It
>> worked after assembly so I moved on to my K2 and built the 160m mod ...
>>     
> hey
>   
>> it worked as well and looked pretty good! SO .. this KIO2 is my 3rd
>>     
> attempt
>   
>> at building. Now that I have the pin counting down I'll proceed with
>>     
> crossed
>   
>> fingers!
>>
>> BTW ... at P4 on the control board where the AUX board will plug in, pin 9
>> (using your method) has been cut out and there is no wire going to it from
>> the tuner. Is this a normal mod and should I cut any of the pins from the
>> new AUX board? I assume it was cut to prevent some sort of short if it was
>> plugged into wrong?
>>
>> Thanks again!
>>
>> Damon 
>>   
>>
>>     
>
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