[Elecraft] K2 - KIO2 AUX I/O Install

[W4HDM]

Thanks Don! 

    After your last email I read through the remainder of the manual for the
install and found that yes the pins are labeled on the schematic on the
back! Duh. I now understand how these pins are labeled. 

Yes, my K2 had the KAP100 and I removed it with the intention of mounting it
in the KAT100-2 as a separate unit. For now I have the other top installed
with the KAT2 and battery option. I still have a ways to go to get this rig
up to date but I'm working on it!

After connecting the K2 to my PC and turning on the port it was recognized
by HamRadioDeluxe and seemed to function as it should. 

One last question for the reflector on this install and I should be done.

My K2's Owner's Manual .. page 100 states "Once the host adapter is
installed you will have three display modes freq/mode, real time clock, and
voltage/current displays"  Mine only has the original 2 ...no clock. Does
this option only show up if you have the KDSP2 installed?

 "73"
Damon 



-----Original Message-----
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3fpr at embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:52 PM
To: W4HDM
Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KIO2 AUX I/O Install

Damon,

Here is where things get hard and complicated --
2 wide header pins ar numbered differently than ICs.  Start at pin 1, 
then pin 2 is on the other side of the two rows, pin 3 is next to pin 1, 
etc.  Net result is that the odd numbered pins are on one side and the 
even numbered are on the other.  I hesitate to mention that the DBxx 
series of connectors is numbered differently than either ICs or header 
pins - sory, but it is a confusing world.
The one thing that helps is that the Elecraft schematics show the proper 
numbering of the pins.  Other schematics are not so kind and simply mark 
the pin number, but show the connector or IC as a block with the pins 
numbered in some random order.

The pin that is cut off on the header is pin 4 which is unused (pin 1 is 
at the top of the control board toward the edge).  Your K2 must have had 
the KPA100 installed at one time, and for that installation, pin 4 is 
cut off and the connecting ribbon cable is keyed.  Since the KIO2 AUX 
board cannot be successfully installed upside down and allow the top 
cover to still be installed, keying of the mating connector is not 
necessary.

BTW - if you have the KAT2 as well as the KIO2 installed in that K2, the 
green wire on the KAT2 connector must be at the top.

73,
Don W3FPR


W4HDM wrote:
> Don,
>
>      Thanks for your help, yes that was the problem ...my lack of
> experience! After counting the pins the correct way the voltage is now
> within specs with a -9.6.
>
> My electronics building started just 2 days ago. I went to the local
> electronics store (Fry's) and purchased a Hakko 936 soldering station and
a
> cheap sounds to lights kit to see if I was capable enough to continue. It
> worked after assembly so I moved on to my K2 and built the 160m mod ...
hey
> it worked as well and looked pretty good! SO .. this KIO2 is my 3rd
attempt
> at building. Now that I have the pin counting down I'll proceed with
crossed
> fingers!
>
> BTW ... at P4 on the control board where the AUX board will plug in, pin 9
> (using your method) has been cut out and there is no wire going to it from
> the tuner. Is this a normal mod and should I cut any of the pins from the
> new AUX board? I assume it was cut to prevent some sort of short if it was
> plugged into wrong?
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Damon 
>   
>