[Elecraft] K3 Audio Upgrade Mod

[Dr. James C. Garland]

Hi Ron and the group,
I use a homemade (by my friend K8DR) hold-down tool for soldering SMT parts,
and I agree with Ron that they get easier to install with a little practice.


However, I still believe that most hams would find easier the through-hole
version of the audio upgrade mod, and since there's no electrical or
mechanical disadvantage to that version, nor any likelihood of damaging the
board, then I don't see any real benefit to offering the other version.
True, a few experienced builders may be comfortable with SMT installation
techniques: the problem, however, is the inexperienced builders who try it,
get in over their head, and end up damaging their K3's circuit board.

With respect to the RF choke part of the mod, it occurred to me that the
problem with the "long" method is not that is too long (15 mins in my case),
but that some builders might have trouble clearing the holes in the solder
pads vacated by the original choke. I used a desoldering station to clear
the holes, but many owners wouldn't have that or a "solder sucker."  A way
around the problem would be for Elecraft to provide two or three inches of
solder wick with the kit, and then delete the option that requires cutting a
trace on the circuit board.  Once the pads are cleared, installing the new
RF choke is very fast and easy, and one retains the pristine circuit board.
Just a suggestion.

73,

Jim W8ZR



> -----Original Message-----
> From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
> bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
> Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 11:30 AM
> To: 'Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU'
> Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Upgrade Mod
> 
> Floated off? Did you heat both ends at the same time?
> 
> I haven't checked the parts on that particular board, but many such parts
> are attached to the board with a drop of adhesive before they're soldered.
> 
> When mounting SMDs - piggyback or on a bare board, I tack one lead with a
> slightly wet soldering iron tip while holding the part in place, just as
> shown in the procedure. When I'm satisfied with the placement, I solder
> the
> other terminal(s). Then, if needed, I go back and touch up the first one.
> 
> That way, at least one terminal is secure at all times to hold the part.
> 
> Ron AC7AC
>