[Elecraft] Repositioning Components soldered too far from PCB

[Hank Kryger]

Ron is right in his comments.

I'll add a few.  When I solder parts I solder one end and check if the 
part is seated correctly, if not,  it is easy to correct.  With a small 
pliers I apply  a light pressure to the lead and heat the connection. 
After it is cooled somewhat the other lead is soldered and the first 
lead is reheated  again to assure proper heating has taken place.  All 
this is done under a light with magnifier incorporated in the light 
fixture.  A magnifier light is a must when working on a K2 or other mod 
kits.

Have fun Hank WA9QJH

On 03, Apr 2007, at 11:01, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> In my experience, Brett's right.
>
> Be sure the solder is molten before pressing on the component. If the 
> iron's
> hot enough the component body itself (resistor, cap, etc.) shouldn't 
> be so
> hot it burns your finger, but if your finger's really tender, put a 
> band-aid
> on your fingertip or get a finger cot (used by people counting money,
> papers, etc. to make their finger tip grip better and often used in
> electronics to avoid contaminating parts with finger oils). Be 
> cautious if
> you use a finger cot and touch only the component body. You don't want 
> to
> melt it!
>
> Your iron should be at 700F or 750F. The solder in the pad should be 
> molten
> within 2 or 3 seconds after applying heat. Use a wet iron. Since you 
> already
> have one hand tied up holding the board and pressing down on the 
> component,
> touching the solder with the iron to pick up a drop on the tip just 
> before
> touching the solder pad is usually the easiest way to ensure quick,
> efficient heat transfer to the pad.
>
> If your iron doesn't seem to melt the solder in the pad within 3 
> seconds of
> applying it and your have the temperature set to 700F minimum, make 
> sure the
> tip is clean *inside* the iron assembly where it contacts the heating
> element. Carbonization there can cause the heat transfer to be very 
> poor,
> although the temperature sensor may think it's fine and shut off the 
> heater.
>
>
> And, after these components are in place, it's a good reminder to 
> *spread
> the leads* as described in the manual when installing each part, then 
> check
> to see that the parts stay in position against the board when turning 
> the
> board over and *before* soldering.
>
> I prefer to solder each part as I go, rather than install a gang of 
> them to
> solder all at once. It takes a little longer to do them one-at-a-time, 
> but I
> get to check the position of each part immediately and, in doing so, 
> do a
> final check that it's the right part in the right place. Actually, I 
> double
> check the value and position of the part after I've placed it and 
> spread the
> leads and while I'm checking to be sure it's flat against the board 
> *before*
> soldering. It's amazing how easily a part can sometimes change value or
> "jump" to another position on the board when I'm not looking, 
> especially
> after several hours of building. If I find one that has done that I 
> fix it
> *before* soldering, then go take a nice long break.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>  I had no problem pushing some components down
> after the initial soldering using my finger while
> heating the pads below. I do not use much force at all
> and alternate the heat on the pads.
>
> I used a temp controlled soldering station set at
> a low temp to build the entire rig, and even removed some
> parts and turned them around without any damage.
> For removal I used a cheap solder sucker, then gently
> wiggle the pins till loose.
>
> I cant see damaging any parts or the board unless you use way to much 
> heat.
>
> No way I would build the kit without the temp controlled station and a
> magnifying light.
>
> Brett
> N2DTS
>
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