[Elecraft] Repositioning Components soldered too far from PCB

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

In my experience, Brett's right. 

Be sure the solder is molten before pressing on the component. If the iron's
hot enough the component body itself (resistor, cap, etc.) shouldn't be so
hot it burns your finger, but if your finger's really tender, put a band-aid
on your fingertip or get a finger cot (used by people counting money,
papers, etc. to make their finger tip grip better and often used in
electronics to avoid contaminating parts with finger oils). Be cautious if
you use a finger cot and touch only the component body. You don't want to
melt it! 

Your iron should be at 700F or 750F. The solder in the pad should be molten
within 2 or 3 seconds after applying heat. Use a wet iron. Since you already
have one hand tied up holding the board and pressing down on the component,
touching the solder with the iron to pick up a drop on the tip just before
touching the solder pad is usually the easiest way to ensure quick,
efficient heat transfer to the pad.

If your iron doesn't seem to melt the solder in the pad within 3 seconds of
applying it and your have the temperature set to 700F minimum, make sure the
tip is clean *inside* the iron assembly where it contacts the heating
element. Carbonization there can cause the heat transfer to be very poor,
although the temperature sensor may think it's fine and shut off the heater.


And, after these components are in place, it's a good reminder to *spread
the leads* as described in the manual when installing each part, then check
to see that the parts stay in position against the board when turning the
board over and *before* soldering. 

I prefer to solder each part as I go, rather than install a gang of them to
solder all at once. It takes a little longer to do them one-at-a-time, but I
get to check the position of each part immediately and, in doing so, do a
final check that it's the right part in the right place. Actually, I double
check the value and position of the part after I've placed it and spread the
leads and while I'm checking to be sure it's flat against the board *before*
soldering. It's amazing how easily a part can sometimes change value or
"jump" to another position on the board when I'm not looking, especially
after several hours of building. If I find one that has done that I fix it
*before* soldering, then go take a nice long break. 

Ron AC7AC



-----Original Message-----

 I had no problem pushing some components down
after the initial soldering using my finger while
heating the pads below. I do not use much force at all
and alternate the heat on the pads.

I used a temp controlled soldering station set at
a low temp to build the entire rig, and even removed some
parts and turned them around without any damage.
For removal I used a cheap solder sucker, then gently
wiggle the pins till loose.

I cant see damaging any parts or the board unless you use way to much heat.

No way I would build the kit without the temp controlled station and a
magnifying light.

Brett
N2DTS