[Elecraft] N0SS's CW Tuning Indcator

Tom Hammond n0ss at earthlink.net
Sat Nov 20 05:33:03 EST 2004


Hi John:

At 07:38 PM 11/19/04, John wrote:
>I finally got the time to build one of Tom's SMT CW Tuning Indicators 
>today (retirement is hell) and I would like to report that it does a fine 
>job.  I was surprised at how much room there was for it.  I pictured a 
>real tight squeeze but I ended up with all kinds of room.  I attached mine 
>with some double sided foam tape.  Tom did a fine job with this one.  I am 
>planning to put the second one in my K1.  Can anyone who has already done 
>this pass along any helpful information?    I thought that I would use the 
>Tuning Indicator to drive an LED hidden behind the front panel so that the 
>light would shine between the front panel and the buttons.

As of this writing, to my knowledge, at least one builder has installed the 
CW Tuning Indicator in his K1.

I'll be adding some K1 (and KX1) installation notes to my current set of K2 
installation docs soon... but maybe not for a another few days.

Here's the note I received from Steve:

   Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 20:09:23 -0800
   From: Steve Hostetler <jakezh1 at comcast.net>
   To: Elecraft <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
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   Subject: [Elecraft] K6XX/N0SS Tuning Indicator in K1
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   I've had Tom's SMD version in my K2 for a couple weeks and
   it works great.  I just finished testing one in my K1.  It
   also works great, and may be more useful to me than the one
   in the K2.  All connections to the indicator are easily
   picked off J1 (AF from P1, GND from P3 and 12V from P16).

   I'm going to mount an SMD LED behind a 1/16 inch hole in the
   front panel.

   Thanks to Bob and Tom.

   Steve, kx7r

It appears that the easiest place to actually pick off the connections 
might be from the MAIN BOARD, instead of the FP BOARD, but I'm still 
cogitating on this,

Will post something a little more solid soon... as soon as I can 'plunk' 
one into my K1 for testing.

Above, Steve states that he picked his AF input from J1-1, but in further 
discussion, I think he actually used J1-2 (the high side of the AFin pot. 
You might try both and see which you prefer. In fact, you might use J1-1 
for alignment and J1-2 for the final (in use) installation, as J1-1 appears 
to provide a SIDETONE input for alignment, while J1-2 might not provide 
quite as high a level of SIDETONE during normal operation, which I think 
might be wise.

73,

Tom   N0SS



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