[Elecraft] Notes to new K2 builders - Part 2

Tue Mar 23 17:39:00 2004

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Bill Tippett<mailto:[email protected]>=20
  To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>=20
  Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 3:55 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft] Notes to new K2 builders - Part 2

  After a week off, I've now completed Part One of
  the RF Board and successfully gone through the initial
  "smoke test" for #4119 (up to page 43 where I ran into
  question 2 following).  Comments and questions below:

  1.  Figure 6-6 on page 38 does not look at all like the
  side panels I had.  The text in the third paragraph from
  the top left says "The 2-D fasteners to be attached in
  the next step go on the inside surface, which has bare
  aluminum areas that were masked during painting."
  My panels did NOT have the areas for these fasteners
  masked (top front and middle rear), although all 4 2-D
  fasteners from the RF board to the side panels (bottom
  front and 2/3 way toward the rear) were masked. Is this
  a defect in my panels or bad documentation?  Is the
  grounding via the 4 RF-Board 2-D fasteners sufficient?
  If my panels were not masked but should have been,
  can I simply try to scrape the paint away where the
  top front and middle rear 2-D fasteners attach?

  >>>Are you sure the masking tape is not there? When painted the tape =
blends in with the rest of the panel. You may need to lift the edge with =
a knife. If it is not masked you can scrape the paint off or a small =
round wire brush in a Dremal tool works also. Be sure to save the large =
piece of masking tape on the heatsink panel. Remove it and stick it on =
the inside of the front bottom panel to insulate the panel from L31. You =
will not do any of this for a while but keep it in mind.

  2.  Is there no illustration of the RF probe other than
  the schematic in Figure 1 on page 9 of Appendix E?
  Is the probe tip directly soldered into the tip hole so
  that it extends below the board (bottom side) or do
  you bend it at a right angle so it extends in the same
  direction as the probe assembly?  I assume you grasp
  the probe at the rear of the board where coax connects
  but I can imagine using the probe tip either at right angles
  to the probe body or inline with it.  Which is correct and
  how about Elecraft adding a simple drawing in addition to
  the schematic (like Figure 6-14 for the Counter Probe)?

  >>>I use one of the heavy leads cut from D10. Solder it on the top of =
the board and bend at right angles to form a probe tip. Use your flush =
cutters to cut the tip at an angle to form a point. After building slip =
some shrink tubing over the probe and shrink it down leaving the probe =
tip exposed about 1/2 inch

  3.  Is it normal for the Power switch to extend ~5/16"
  when OFF and ~3/16" when ON?  It seemed to snap in
  but just looks a bit longer than it should be to my eye.

  >>>You need to push fairly hard on the switch button to get it to snap =
in place but it looks like yours is on right. The button sticks out 3/16 =
when on=20

  So far so good...I was expecting smoke when
  I powered up but everything came alive as described!

  73,  Bill  W4ZV=20

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