[Elecraft] Taking the K2 in theauto ...

[Don Wilhelm]

Gregg,

You make valid points about preferring to ground the radio direct to the
chassis eliminating the ground loop problem.

The only counter argument that I can offer is that the engine to chassis
connection could develop a higher resistance over time which could cause
numerous problems and should be checked frequently.

Then there is also the problems for the antenna system with the electrical
bonding of doors, engine covers, trunk lids, etc to the main chassis - all
these are potential sources for noise.  If one want to create a good mobile
installation, all parts of the vehicle should be bonded together with an
auxiliary wire or braid.

I do recall in times past (1950s) that every vehicle came from the factory
with a package of grounding straps that were supposed to be installed by the
dealer - but they seldom were.  The  welded unibody construction of todays
vehicles have a much better chassis ground than those older cars, but still
some extra bonding should go a long way to reducing noise and produce a
better mobile antenna system (especially if one mounts the antenna on the
trunk deck lid).

73,
Don W3FPR

----- Original Message ----- 
| ...
| #2 When direct wiring to the vehicle fuse the positive lead at the
| battery.  This will protect the wiring if a short occurs anywhere in the
| engine compartment or when transitioning the firewall.  Yes some of the
| radios are supplied with a full negative lead cable enabling you to
| connect straight to the battery (with fuse) and as mentioned this fuse
| if very important to protect the equipment should the vehicle battery
| ground fail...HOWEVER...I would never wire directly to the battery.
| This is a sure way to induce alternator noise and ground loops to the
| radio system.  Here's why-----
| ...