[Elecraft] Re: Oh where, oh where, has my little tone gone?- PowerPoles

Wed Jun 12 15:11:00 2002

Looking over the stock of Gardner Bender crip tools at the West Mountain 
Radio booth at Dayton Hamvention, I saw a considerable variation in the 
shape of the "crimp region" in the tool.  Variations included:  shallow or 
deep U (die portion), and grossly off centered crimp prong V.  This was 
also true of a rack of similar GB tools in my local Lowes.  As such, I 
hand selected a tool with the nicest looking U and with a coresponding 
centered crimp prong V.    I suspect, the real issue is you get what you 
pay for.  The GB tool is $ 10 - $20, while the "official" AP crimp tool 
costs well more than $100. 

At any rate, I'm attempting to use a light crimp along with solder, 
dimpling the crimp on the split side of the AP connector.  (Does that make 
any sense???)

Steve
aa8af

"Don Brown" <[email protected]>
Sent by: [email protected]
06/12/2002 01:23 PM

        To:     "Elecraft" <[email protected]>
        cc: 
        Subject:        [Elecraft] Re: Oh where, oh where, has my little tone gone?- PowerPoles

Hi

The tool misshapes the contact so it will not go into the housing. If you 
use the round die at the bottom of the tool to reform the contact after 
the crimp, the contact will go in properly. Here is a page explaining how 
to do this:

http://www.westmountainradio.com/supportrr.htm

I use a small screwdriver to push the contact in from the back. When you 
solder or crimp the contact install it so you don't have to twist the wire 
to go into the housing. This will make it easier to install the contact. 
Slide the housings together first before you insert the contact. 

Don Brown
KD5NDB

----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Tavan
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 11:44 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Oh where, oh where, has my little tone gone?

I had trouble when using the crimping tool supplied by West Mountain 
Radio. Was never able to get a crimped lug into the connector body. But 
soldered logs fit in pretty well. Seems to depend on the angle at which 
the wire exits the lug. If it is straight and true and the wire is 
reasonable stiff, the lug clicks right in. Angled and/or floppy wire and 
you will need to push the lug from behind with a small screwdriver. It 
really does/must click in. Now that I've figured out how to assemble them, 
these APP connectors are a joy to use. I am converting my shacks 
completely to APPs and rig-runner distribution boxes. 
73, 
/Rick N6XI 
Mychael Morohovich / AA3WF wrote: 
I am also wondering if anyone else is experiencing troubles with the DC 
connectors? Despite making a very concerted effort to get those pieces of 
"C" shaped flat stock tight against the bodies of the female portions of 
the connector, the connector still exhibits some vertical flex. When 
flexed to the extreme it is enough to cause the K2 to lose power.  The 
contacts are well seated- during assembly I felt and heard a very distinct 
snap as they popped into place. Also, the paired connectors have been 
working themselves loose with the K2 sitting on my bench. I have been 
hearing so much positive press about these connectors that I am surprised 
by my experience with them. Again, am I overlooking something?