[Elecraft] Option and building

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

> Hi all,
> I'm bugeting for a K2 and need to know is it best to build the options
> during the initial build or is it OK to add them on later.  Does one waste
> time in adding them on later?
> Finally, I operate 95% CW at 5 watts (now using the FT-817...BTW great
rig.)
> What are the most important options to enhance the K2?
> tnx for the help....
> 73
> Jim Shaver
> KA7MQB
> Salem, OR


Hi, Jim:

You should build and test the basic K2 first, then add the modules one at a
time. That is the way the instructions are set up, so that you can most
easily find and correct any mistakes or other problems during the build.

Some of the modules require that a connector be added to a board in the
basic K2 for the module to plug into. If you buy the modules at the same
time as you buy the K2, you can insert these connectors into the r-f board
as you do the basic build and save yourself a little time adding the
modules, but it's not a big deal either way.

The biggest decision around what modules to buy depends upon whether you
want:

A self-contained portable rig or not?

QRO and QRP or QRP only?

SSB/Digital & CW or CW only?

Computer control of the rig important?

160 meter capability or do you like to use a separate receiving antenna?

If QRP only, you can skip the KPA100, of course.

If self-contained portable is your  goal, you will want the battery option
and the KAT2 Antenna Tuner. If you need an ATU in any case, the KAT2 is a
good choice: fully automatic and built right into the K2. The battery and
ATU do NOT work with the 100 watt KPA100 module. You can have both, however.
The Battery and ATU mount in the top cover of the K2. The KPA100 amp fits in
a separate top cover. You can switch from portable, battery operated K2 to
desktop QRO K2 by simply changing top covers.

If you think that you might like to explore PSK31 or some other digital mode
(or SSB) then you will want the SSB module.

IF you like to use a separate receive antenna or work 160 meters, you will
want the 160 meter module.

If you want to control you K2 with your computer, you'll need the KIO2
module. (It comes built-in to the KPA100, but you must buy it separate if
you want computer control for your K2 without the 100 watt amp installed).

Most ops like the KAF2 Audio Filter and clock module. It provides some
additional audio filtering for the K2. Like most audio filters, it's a
tradeoff between narrow bandwidths and ringing. Personally, I don't much
like audio filters, so I don't have one. I'm one of those old-fashioned
types who likes to use as wide a bandwidth as possible and let my ears to
the QRM filtering. The K2's basic i-f filters are EXCELLENT, by the way. I
have one set up for 100 Hz for those occasions when I must pull a weak one
out of the mud. The filter has a silky-smooth response that has no sign of
ringing or other irritations.

Finally, there is the Noise Blanker. It is useful from time to time and I
included it in my original purchase without hesitation. It is wonderful for
killing high-amplitude impulse noise like auto ignition or a cheap lamp
dimmer in the area. It is NOT intended to handle the average static crashes
of natural QRN, although ops report that it does help at times. I'd include
it with the understanding that most ops don't need it 90% of the time, but
when it's needed it's worth every dime of the money!

Ron AC7AC
K2 # 1289