[Elecraft] Solder Station

Sun Jul 28 13:59:03 2002

Hi

Tom I right. A common misconception is to use a colder tip on PC boards t=
o prevent damage, this is wrong. The copper in the pad and component lead=
 conduct heat rapidly the fiberglass much more slowly. A hot clean tip ca=
n bring the metal up to soldering temperature quickly so the joint is mad=
e faster. This does not give enough time for the fiberglass to heat to th=
e point of damage. I set my soldering station (WES-50) at 750-775 degrees=
 and each joint takes about 1 1/2 to 2 seconds. I like a chisel tip but t=
hat is a personal choice you may like something else. I would avoid a rou=
nd tip because it contacts the pad and lead with less area for good heat =
transfer. When I use a WTCP iron I like a 700 degree tip the 800 degree t=
ip seems a bit much. I would also avoid the long reach tips. The further =
the tip is from the heater the more it will cool when you make a joint an=
d the longer it takes to bring the tip back to the soldering temperature.

Another bad habit is excessive wiping the tip on the sponge. One wipe on =
each side is enough any more will just cool the tip. Do not wipe the tip =
before placing it back in the holder. The tip should always have a coatin=
g of solder to protect it. When I am installing an IC or connector I sold=
er all of the pins one after the other without wiping the iron. I then go=
 back over each pad and re-flow them without applying any more solder. Th=
is allows the solder to flow down through the hole to the other side of t=
he board and burns a little of the flux so the board looks better.

If you have a non controlled iron you can use a lamp dimmer to adjust the=
 temperature. You will have to experiment to find the best setting. If yo=
u are going to do much building get yourself a temperature controlled sol=
dering station they last a long time. I have a Weller WTCP that is over 2=
0 years old that still works great.

Don Brown
KD5NDB

4 1/2 K2's
3 K1's
all options
2 KPA100's

----- Original Message -----
From: Tom HammondN=D8SS
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 12:03 PM
To: [email protected]; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solder Station

Woody:

>I have a RS solder station with an iron that can be switched between 20W=
 &
>40W.  I have always used 20W position for light work on flimsy boards & =
works
>fine.  40W position for sturdy boards (like Elecraft?).  I'm also use to
>using a pointes tip and it works just great for me.  Questions:
>
>1.  Is the 40W position O.K. for the K-1 kit?
>2.  Am I really going to get "poor results" if I don't use a "chisel or
>     spade" shaped tip?

The 40W position will probably be OK if you use care to not dwell on the =20
joint too long.

A station with '20W' and '40W' positions implies that it does not control=
 =20
the temperature, but rather the amount of voltage applied to the heating =20
element. This being the case, your tip temp can easily exceed 750-800 deg=
. =20
F... even when in the '20W' position. This generally will not be a terrib=
ly =20
bad thing as long as you use care in your application of heat. The intent=
 =20
should be to make a good THERMAL connection and then get in and back out =
as =20
quickly as possible, but yet ensuring a well-soldered joint.

Personally, I prefer a chisel tip, AND one which is about 75%-90% the wid=
th =20
of the PCB pad on which I'm soldering. This helps to ensure less chance o=
f =20
me dragging solder between two adjacent pads. This seems become easier to=
 =20
do when you have a LOT of heat available... not certain why, just an =20
observation.

Given the opportunity to use either a 20W or a 40W heat range, I'd use th=
e =20
40W because it should allow you to get in and out more quickly.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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