[CW] Vibroplex Original Damper Wheel

[stan levandowski via CW]

Thanks for the info, Richard.  I decided to leave my screw and nut alone 
and I just fixed it with a little threadlocker.  At first I was going to 
cut the overly long screw short but it didn't fit my 4-40 bolt cutter 
and it looks as old as the other hardware so I'm just going to assume it 
*is* the original 4-36 and leave it alone to preserve its history.  The 
key is otherwise complete, just absolutely filthy but that's improving 
steadily ;-)


Based on the serial number it's a 1943 Original made at 833 Broadway and 
it was donated to the museum ship I volunteer aboard (the USS SLATER, 
last WWII destroyer-escort still afloat in the U.S. Our call sign is 
WW2DEM).    
 
As I studied it, I concluded it might represent an example of the sort 
of industrial turmoil brought about by wartime shortages and the 
attendant compromises. The data plate is steel since brass was too 
valuable.  The bottom of the base appears to have irregular shaped 
craters as if the grade of steel used, or the process, was inferior. 
 The L damper mounting is crooked; the mounting holes were not 
equidistant from the edge of the base.  I would have thought they would 
have been jigged holes. 


One thing I've always wondered about was the wartime market for bugs. 
 Straight keys were still the norm during the war and, at least as far 
as the navy was concerned, a "speed key" certificate was required to use 
a bug.  The current issue of QST suggests that amateur activity during 
the war years still continued for civil defense purposes as determined 
by local government officials.  So I guess hams were still part of the 
market, albeit a small part, of the total market for bugs along with 
government entities, the armed forces and perhaps certain business and 
industries like transportation (railroads, airlines...).


All in all, an interesting winter time project; so interesting that I 
just purchased another wartime era bug for myself and I'll restore it 
after I get finished practicing my techniques on this one ;-)


73 and Season's Greetings to all,
Stan WB2LQF


 
On Sun, Dec 14, 2014 at 12:57 PM, Richard Knoppow via CW wrote:

> FWIW, I just looked at three standard bugs. The screw holding the 
> damper protrudes from the lock nut on all but with somewhat different 
> length. Two of these are the pre-WW-2 style with sharp cornered 
> castings, one is about a 1950 version with the rounded casting so the 
> dimensions may be slightly different. I have never had a damper move 
> after being adjusted. They seem to work best when they slide sideways 
> easily and can flop back and forth just slightly.
>   Another FWIW: I've looked at the design of both the standard and 
> Lightening Bug versions. Its important that the main shaft be aligned 
> vertically for the correct height. There is some compensation for this 
> in the adjustable dash contact but the dot contact will not make 
> squarely unless the overall height is correct. This is done with the 
> vertical trunion adjustments. The same is probably true for all speed 
> keys.
>   BTW, my WW-2 vintage bug has a few parts that appear to have been 
> plated with zinc. These develop a coating of white powder. My 
> understanding is that the powder is zinc oxide. It is harmless and 
> should be left alone since it provides some protection from further 
> oxidation. I have not seen this on bugs of other periods so perhaps it 
> was done only in war-time or perhaps its worn off of others.
>
>
> --
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles
> WB6KBL
> dickburk at ix.netcom.com
>
>
> --
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles
> WB6KBL
> dickburk at ix.netcom.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "stan levandowski via CW" To: 
> "D.J.J. Ring, Jr." Cc: "CW Reflector" Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2014 
> 6:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [CW] Vibroplex Original Damper Wheel
>
>
>
> Thank you, David, and everyone else who responded. I have standard
> 4-40 hardware and the screw is indeed "too long" and obviously not
> original. It didn't even look right since the screw extended beyond 
> the
> nut for quite a distance. I'll just thread the nut on, cut the screw
> off and reassemble with a dab of Locktite Blue unless I can find "more
> correct" hardware.
> 73 and Season's Greetings,
> Stan WB2LQF
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 13, 2014 at 11:29 PM, D.J.J. Ring, Jr. via CW wrote:
>
>
> The Original damper wheel moves around, I just tried to take two of 
> them
> apart, I cannot do it with my fingers, the nut on the back will not
> loosen all the way. Same with the other key.
>
> I have never had the damper wheel fly off. I have had them tighten up,
> but I just back off on the forward screw. I do not remember if this 
> was
> other people's bugs or mine, but I check my bug often.
>
> Damper wheel moves.
>
> Weights tightly screwed on.
>
> Adjust dash distance.
>
> Adjust dash tension.
>
> Clean contacts with stiff paper.
>
> Check for 10 solid dots.
>
> If something doesn't sound right, I investigate. Common malfunctions
> are dirty contacts, poor ground due to ground terminal being loose, 
> hot
> terminal underneath straps dirty or loose. Dot U spring loose on
> Vibrator. Oil on dot lever tension spring on deluxe post 1980 bugs.
> Broken or loose ground strap on deluxe pre 1980 models. Oil or grease
> put on trunnion pivots: clean off!!
>
> David
>
> N1EA
>
>
> On Dec 13, 2014 11:06 PM, "stan levandowski via CW"