[Boatanchors] Desoldering Components

[Joe Connor]

Al:

    Your webpage has so much cool, interesting and useful information. Thanks for posting it all. Anyone who hasn't checked it out should do so: http://www.skywaves.ar88.net/

                          Joe Connor



>________________________________
> From: Al Klase <ark at ar88.net>
>To: boatanchors at mailman.qth.net 
>Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 3:05 PM
>Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Desoldering Components
> 
>
>David,
>
>Don't excavate the joints unless you absolutely have to.  Try this 
>technique: 
>http://www.skywaves.ar88.net/commrx/Maintenance/Comprepl/component_replacement.htm
>
>If you need to cut a lead to make a test, cut it in the middle. Then 
>sleeve it back together with a pigtail.
>
>You'll be much happier this way,
>Al
>
>On 5/9/2013 2:37 PM, David C. Hallam wrote:
>> I'm sure this has been discussed over and over, but I am at the point 
>> where I am ready to start pulling out what little hair I have left on 
>> my head.  I have a Hallicrafters SX-100 MK II that needs a number of 
>> components replaced.  I have tested most of the resistors finding at 
>> least 1/3 of them are out of spec, >10% and there are a multitude of 
>> tiny chief capacitors.  I have now removed 5 of these and one tested bad.
>>
>> I have tried various method of removing the solder from tie points and 
>> tube sockets; a Weller DS-500 desoldering station, a 40W soldering 
>> iron with a 2.4mm chisel point and a solder sucker or desoldering 
>> braid with and without liquid rosin flux, an assortment of dental 
>> picks and Xacto knives to pull and separate leads.  I am at the point 
>> where I am afraid of toasting the phenolic in the tie strips before I 
>> have removed the solder sufficiently to get the components loose.
>>
>> How have others accomplished this?
>>
>> David
>> KW4DH
>>
>
>-- 
>Al Klase - N3FRQ
>Jersey City, NJ
>http://www.skywaves.ar88.net/
>
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