[Boatanchors] Johnson Ranger VFO Access Question

[Whitebear1122]

My thanks to all the folks who emailed instructions and advice on this topic.  I wasn't expecting much feedback and I am overwhelmed with the amount of advice I received!   I'm printing it all out and keeping in the Johnson folder for future adventures into the Ranger and Navigator.  My Navigator VFO is electrically unstable so I'll need to get in there next.

This morning I successfully pulled the front panel off without any difficulty.  The secret is exactly what you guys mentioned, keeping any force OFF of the fragile shaft coupling during removal.  I took some photos that I will share with the group so folks can see what that coupling looks like.  THis is my first foray into the guts of the VFO beyond simply opening the side panel and replacing the 18K.

I removed the vfo vernier and it has a 'knobby' feel, not smooth at all, feeling like it has indents.  I have it soaking in a baggie full of PG Blaster right now but I found out from Rodger WQ9E that the vernier comes apart so I'll separate it and clean the pieces and parts, lube it up with synthetic lube, then reassemble.

I also cleaned the VFO variable capacitor wipers and will clean the rotary switch contacts for the multiplier switch.  

I removed the VFO shield as well.  
Yes I plan to recap all the electrolytics and paper capacitors since I'm in there and they are all easily accessible.  That 10 uf 700 volt electrolytic will be a slight pain due to the high voltage rating that is not available.  I see that KE9PQ sells a Ranger recap kit that includes a 700v capacitor "tube".  I'm not sure I'll go that route or just buy the caps separately.   I assume the HV tube simply contains two 20 uf 350 or 400 volt caps in series, two equalizing resistors (maybe), then sealed in the tube with wires coming out.   I think I can do that myself with two separate caps and resistors, then slide it in a piece of shrink tubing for electrical isolation and mechanical stability, and shrink it down.  

I am certainly going to replace the 18K OA2 current limit resistor.  Mine measures 22K at the moment, and one of the color bands literally fell off when I touched it.  :)    I had one of those go bad on my Valiant back in 1995 or 1996, where it literally burned up and cracked, taking out the 6AU6 and OA2 in the carnage.

With the front panel off, I guess I'll be able to really clean it without goobering up the controls and shafts. hi hi

I've tried to take pictures during the disassembly.  I have most of the nuts and bolts in baggies marked with their origin. 

I don't have any plans to hot rod the Ranger.  Ranger audio sounds fine in general for my use.  I used to run other Ranger 1's and II's with my Desk KW and got great audio reports.  I'm also leaving the tube rectifiers in as I don't have any issue with them.

I appreciate the your advice and help as I take on this adventure.

73, Scott WA9WFA