[Boatanchors] Repairing Ceramic

[Jay Coward]

A toilet tank cover was broken by an inept contractor. He glued it with a cyanacrolytic type glue. Of the two joints he repaired, one is still strong (10+ yrs.) ,the other separated after a few (3?) years.
 I also repaired a CU-32/ART-13 tuner that had multiple fractures in ceramics and phenolic parts.I glued it all together with cyanacrolate lite lyte? Sold it with explanations...
 In your application, if there is little stress applied to the part when it is used, I would recomend one of these "crazy" glues as it holds well and does not "fill" as John points out.
 Jay KE6PPF
                   YuMMV  (a chocolate car)



-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Yost <n2ry at yahoo.com>
To: rbethman <rbethman at comcast.net>
Cc: boatanchors <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 1, 2012 4:00 pm
Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Repairing Ceramic


I've used JBWeld with success
Rich
2ry

n Oct 1, 2012, at 6:31 PM, rbethman <rbethman at comcast.net> wrote:
> Try two part 24HR epoxy.
 
 Thin it with a couple of drops of alcohol.  Paint it on with a throw 
 away brush.
 
 It takes awhile to set up, but it is very thin.
 
 We used to do that in the engine area and fuel tank area of R/C aircraft.
 
 It will do very well.
 
 Bob - N0DGN
 
 On 10/1/2012 6:24 PM, J. Forster wrote:
> If it's a clean break, you do not want a filled adhesive, which widens the
> glue line.
> 
> YMMV,
> 
> -John
> 
> ==========
> 
> 
>> Loctite 1C two part high temperature epoxy
>> Sets up to tacky very quickly, 24 hours to strength
>> White color, looks exactly like ceramic or porcelein
>> Hard as all get out when set
>> Withstands imersion in boiling water!
>> We have used it to cement thermocouples to electric water heating elements
>> for lab measurements. Pretty good if it can do that and survive.
>> Paul K0UYA
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "J. Forster" <jfor at quikus.com>
>> To: "Bob Sullivan" <robert at isquare.com>
>> Cc: "Boat Anchors List" <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
>> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2012 3:57 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Repairing Ceramic
>> 
>> 
>> I would not use quick set epoxy as it might thicken before fully flowed.
>> 
>> Option 1:  Corning made some special ceramic glue for repairing china. It
>> could be used on teapots and cups and would survive the dishwasher. If
>> that is still available, it'd be my first choice.
>> 
>> Option 2: Use a clear, unfilled, two part, slower setting epoxy. Warm the
>> pieces a bit before applying the epoxy so it flows better. Try and make
>> the glue line as thin as you possibly can. Clamp, or use rubber bands to
>> hold it together. Remove any surface excess with alcohol or acetone while
>> unset.
>> 
>> FWIW,
>> 
>> -John
>> 
>> ===============
>> 
>> 
>>> Listmates,
>>> 
>>> I have a cracked ceramic (steatite?) support on the large plate tuning
>>> capacitor in a Viking 500. It's a nice "clean" crack. I would like
>>> suggestions for the best glue to use for repair. I would assume quick
>>> set
>>> epoxy would be okay but thought I better ask ...
>>> 
>>> 73, Bob
>>> WØYVA
>>> http://www.isquare.com/personal_pages/ras-hardware.htm
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