[Boatanchors] RME-69 'lytic replacement

[Carl]

Or do as I did with one of the oldest 1935 HRO's known to exist. Make the 
effort to restuff all the caps, replicate resistors and remove all old leads 
from sockets. Those old sockets are pretty rugged but you take a gamble with 
bandswitches; I usually clip the old lead right at the contact and carefully 
push an opening thru molten solder for the new lead. Now I have the HRO 
looking original and can use it with a same vintage transmitter without 
worrying.

We were taught in the Navy to completely remove the old leads and that was 
the same procedure mandated in the Service Dept at National in the 60's 
where I went after the Navy. After doing it the "right way" for 50 years its 
second nature. There arent many of us left that take the effort.


Ive since done it to all my collection as well as customer sets unless it is 
a cheap AA-5 with the cheapest sockets possible.

Carl
KM1H





> Dennis beat me to it.
>
>  I've restored a lot of 1930's communications receivers, and, in most
> cases, I see no good reason to restuff electrolytics.  Cut the thing
> dead, and leave it in place.  Then install modern caps below deck.  You
> may need to add a terminal strip to pick up the loose ends.
>
> This way the set looks original to the casual observer.  Anybody who
> looks under the chassis is going to understand perfectly what you did,
> and be glad you did it in a sensible manner.  The same goes for "quigg
> mounting" replacement tubular caps rather than excavating the original
> solder joints, breaking/burning thing, and generally making a mess.
>
> If you think a radio is so historically important that it needs to look
> like it just came out of the factory, then leave it alone, and don't
> play it.

> Al




>
> On 3/23/2010 11:47 AM, mac wrote:
>> You might consider sneaking individual modern replacements under the
>> chassis, leaving the can in place to preserve the above chassis
>> appearance.
>>
>> Dennis D. W7QHO
>> Glendale, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2010, at 8:05 AM, Bill Stewart wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Has anyone replaced or re-stuffed the can electrolytic condenser
>>> C34, C35&  C23, which are all in the same can. Looks to be held in
>>> by two tab screws on the can, but the nuts are under a band switch
>>> coil can. It looks like a major job to remove it, if re-stuffing is
>>> desired. Any pointers?
>>>
>>> Thanks, Bill K4JYS
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>
> -- 
> Al Klase - N3FRQ
> Jersey City, NJ
> http://www.skywaves.ar88.net/
>
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