[Boatanchors] Ferrite Rod Repair

[J Forster]

Superglue is simply NO GOOD a void filler.

-John

============

rbethman wrote:

> To deal with a porous object, you would need to go to a Hobby shop.
> There are THREE different "super glues".  There is the watery one that
> every knows and uses.  Then for model building, wood, there is a thicker
> SLOW setting, AND a thicker Gap Filling one.
>
> Been building R/C aircraft and racing R/C cars since 1989.
>
> The gap filling one would have done it, OR use the watery one, let it
> soak and cure, then apply another coat PLUS use heat shrink.
>
> Clear unfilled epoxy would be TOO thick.  To thin clear epoxy, add a
> SINGLE drop of alcohol.  This is how R/C aircraft firewalls and wheel
> wells are sealed from the engine fuel, which is a mixture of Methanol,
> NitroMethane, and Synthetic lubricant.  If soaked intp the wood, the
> structural strength decreases rapidly.
>
> Bob - N0DGN
>
> J Forster wrote:
> > That's one reason I suggested clear, unfilled epoxy.
> > -John
> >
> > ==============
> >
> > Revcom wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Thanks to all that responded with suggestions on fixing the broken ferrite
> >> rod on my SW-717,  the consensus was to use super glue, which I thought of
> >> at first.  Not getting any reasons to use some sort of particle bearing
> >> cement, ferrite dust or whatever, to retain any magnetic coupling, I tired
> >> super glue.  Problem is the ferrite material acts like a sponge for the
> >> super glue, would not properly bond.  So.....I used 3M -4475-, plastic
> >> adhesive, then used a small sleeve of heat shrink around the whole area and
> >> it set up pretty darn good!
> >>
> >> Thanks again for suggestions on this, got'r going.  Radio plays good.
> >>
> >> Rod
> >> K0EQH