[Boatanchors] Ferrite Rod Repair

[rbethman]

To deal with a porous object, you would need to go to a Hobby shop.  
There are THREE different "super glues".  There is the watery one that 
every knows and uses.  Then for model building, wood, there is a thicker 
SLOW setting, AND a thicker Gap Filling one.

Been building R/C aircraft and racing R/C cars since 1989.

The gap filling one would have done it, OR use the watery one, let it 
soak and cure, then apply another coat PLUS use heat shrink.

Clear unfilled epoxy would be TOO thick.  To thin clear epoxy, add a 
SINGLE drop of alcohol.  This is how R/C aircraft firewalls and wheel 
wells are sealed from the engine fuel, which is a mixture of Methanol, 
NitroMethane, and Synthetic lubricant.  If soaked intp the wood, the 
structural strength decreases rapidly.

Bob - N0DGN

J Forster wrote:
> That's one reason I suggested clear, unfilled epoxy.
> -John
>
> ==============
>
> Revcom wrote:
>
>   
>> Thanks to all that responded with suggestions on fixing the broken ferrite
>> rod on my SW-717,  the consensus was to use super glue, which I thought of
>> at first.  Not getting any reasons to use some sort of particle bearing
>> cement, ferrite dust or whatever, to retain any magnetic coupling, I tired
>> super glue.  Problem is the ferrite material acts like a sponge for the
>> super glue, would not properly bond.  So.....I used 3M -4475-, plastic
>> adhesive, then used a small sleeve of heat shrink around the whole area and
>> it set up pretty darn good!
>>
>> Thanks again for suggestions on this, got'r going.  Radio plays good.
>>
>> Rod
>> K0EQH
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Bob - NØDGN