[Boatanchors] Re: GB> Dial Re-Stringing Madness!

Tom NØJMY - AAR7FV tfarl at mchsi.com
Mon May 12 15:53:41 EDT 2008


Realize, of course, that this is one of my two bong-hit ideas, but I 
wonder what a little thin-walled heat-shrink would do for you if you 
shrunk it over that part of the shaft?

Or liquid plastic?  Or anything that could be brushed on in a thin coat 
that dries hard, but not "rock" hard.  Epoxy or whatever.


73,
Tom

Front Panel Overlays for Ham Radio-
New Can-type Capacitors- HW-16-DX60-Drake-more.
  www.hayseedhamfest.com

Greg Mijal wrote:
> Hi:
>  
> I work on old ham gear all the time and am trying to increase my skill 
> level with the dreaded task of dial re-stringing.  There is one kind of 
> dial stringing scheme that seems to give me lots of problems and my 
> batting average with this one is not good.  I'll describe it for you and 
> if you have any knowledge to share I sure would appreciate it.
>  
> It's the main tuning capacitor with the big tin wheel attached to the 
> tuning shaft and driven by a couple of turns wound around a brass shaft 
> attached to the main tuning dial which is off set from the tuning 
> capacitor.  This scheme is in the Drake 2A 2B RX,  the Hammarlund HX 50 
> transmitter and lots of other stuff.
> No problems following the manuals to set up the stringing and I have 
> specialized tools to get right thru it. I use good quality string 
> designed for radio work.  The problem is I frequently end up with a dial 
> that stops moving at some point in it's travel range. There is good 
> tension overall and the string is not binding as it travels.  The damn 
> thing just stops turning the cap and slips on the tuning dial shaft.
> Any ideas guys?
> Thanks
> Greg
> WA7LYO
> Kinston NC


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