[Boatanchors] Re: GB> Dial Re-Stringing Madness!
Tom NØJMY - AAR7FV
tfarl at mchsi.com
Mon May 12 15:53:41 EDT 2008
Realize, of course, that this is one of my two bong-hit ideas, but I
wonder what a little thin-walled heat-shrink would do for you if you
shrunk it over that part of the shaft?
Or liquid plastic? Or anything that could be brushed on in a thin coat
that dries hard, but not "rock" hard. Epoxy or whatever.
73,
Tom
Front Panel Overlays for Ham Radio-
New Can-type Capacitors- HW-16-DX60-Drake-more.
www.hayseedhamfest.com
Greg Mijal wrote:
> Hi:
>
> I work on old ham gear all the time and am trying to increase my skill
> level with the dreaded task of dial re-stringing. There is one kind of
> dial stringing scheme that seems to give me lots of problems and my
> batting average with this one is not good. I'll describe it for you and
> if you have any knowledge to share I sure would appreciate it.
>
> It's the main tuning capacitor with the big tin wheel attached to the
> tuning shaft and driven by a couple of turns wound around a brass shaft
> attached to the main tuning dial which is off set from the tuning
> capacitor. This scheme is in the Drake 2A 2B RX, the Hammarlund HX 50
> transmitter and lots of other stuff.
> No problems following the manuals to set up the stringing and I have
> specialized tools to get right thru it. I use good quality string
> designed for radio work. The problem is I frequently end up with a dial
> that stops moving at some point in it's travel range. There is good
> tension overall and the string is not binding as it travels. The damn
> thing just stops turning the cap and slips on the tuning dial shaft.
> Any ideas guys?
> Thanks
> Greg
> WA7LYO
> Kinston NC
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