[Boatanchors] soldering/desoldering on boatanchors

[Gary Pewitt]

Eugene, go back and buy the gun.  Those temp controlled pencils are meant 
for solid state gear.  Nice to have for lighter work but not much good for 
the heavier stuff.  Long applications of heat damage components.  You are 
better off with more heat for a shorter time.  And get some hemostats for 
heat sinks to protect the new components you are adding.  Even alligator 
clips will help.  And while you are at it get some dental picks to move 
things around.  Have fun.
73  Gary



At 09:11 PM 2/14/2006, Eugene Hertz wrote:

>Ladies and Gents:
>
>Recently began trying to work on some radios and other equip.  I came 
>across an alumn can-type lytic capacitor that was (I believe) bad in a 
>power supply.  I began to try to desolder it, but found my 40W Ratshack 
>iron was barely melting the solder, even after holding it for many many 
>minutes.
>
>I decided I needed more power.  I went to ratshack and while looking for a 
>100W iron (gun) I stumbled across a temperature controllable with a 
>digital readout to set and also read the actual tip temp. No where on the 
>box or instructions could I find the wattage rating, but it did say the 
>temp was controllable from 350F to 840F. I bought the thing, but can 
>anyone tell me what are the watts associated with this temp range?
>
>I opted to buy this instead of their 100W gun, because I am unfamiliar 
>with the techniques for using the guns vs the pencil-style. Most 
>unfamiliar with how the tip can work, so I went with the pencil-style with 
>the temp control.
>
>thanks
>Eugene
>
>
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Gary Pewitt  N9ZSV   n9zsv at cei.net  479 675 4376
1500 French Prairie Rd. Booneville, Arkansas  72927
Sturgeon's Law "Ninety percent of everything is crap"