[Boatanchors] Re-doing panels

[Jack Taylor]

Paint matching isn't too difficult.  If you have a sample of original paint,
take it to Wal Mart
or any one of the other stores that has computer matching.  Instead of oil
based enamel,
I've had great success with water based latex as it is a LOT easier to work
with and
seems to provide a smoother finish.  I use an inexpensive CO2 air gun
thingie made by
Preval which includes a small paint jar.  I got my Preval many years ago at
ACE hardware
for less than $10.00.  Panel preparation is the key and for steel panels I
apply a coat of
rust inhibitor first then a coat of water diluted latex cut by about a
quarter so it sprays
smoothly.

For panel graphics do a google search on PhotoEZ.  This is a relatively
inexpensive
alternative to silk screening.  It's a special printer paper that when
printed and then
exposed for a short time to UV (in the sun) will provide you a template.
The paper
comes in two resolutions, fine and regular.  I've not tried this yet but of
the understanding
the regular screen paper is adequate for most panel work.  The Photoez
suppliers have
a kit and a frame with which to get first time users up and running.
There's plenty of
information on their web sites plus there is a Photoez forum available.

73 de Jack  --  N7OO

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WØQFC" <erastber at tampabay.rr.com>
To: <FLBOATANCHORS at yahoogroups.com>; <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 4:10 PM
Subject: [Boatanchors] Re-doing panels


> I guess I am a glutton for punishment, but I would like to learn how to
redo
> boatanchor front panels.
> Do it the right way, that is and I need some help.
> First, I know that there is the problem of matching the paint, but how is
> the lettering done on a panel when the panel is not etched and painted?
> Do you use decals of some sort?
> Any help would be appreciated.
> TIA
>
> 73,
> Gene, WØQFC
> Spring Hill, Florida
> WEB SITE:
> http://www.w0qfc.com
>