[Boatanchors] several shack set up questions...

[CEMILTON at aol.com]

In a message dated 7/8/2005 7:21:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,  ehertz at tca
f.org writes:

I am  sloooowly working on getting my very first shack set up in a spare  
bedroom


Eugene,
 
Nice post..........  First, let me respond to the code learning.   Whatever 
you do, don't try to learn by dots and dashes.  You are learning a  language, 
not sounds!  There are several ways to learn by sounds so I don't  know all of 
them.  However, I have used CODE QUICK with others and  myself.  They have a 
neat method of teaching sounds by pictue  association.  It's fast, easy and 
they teach it in stages that build on the  previous lessons.  You can go from 
zero to 15 wpm in less than a  month.  I used it in the 1990's and built my speed 
to copy  22wpm.............  The Farnsworth method is widely used.  Simply  
stated, code is sent at 13 wpm for the character length but at a spacing that  
equates to 5 wpm...........  A nice way to learn and overcome the "barrier"  
that seems to exist in most operators heads at somewhere just above 10  
wpm.............  Code Quick gets you around that barrier.    (NOTE:  I'm not 
affiliated with code quick or any other  product.........just your ordinary 
ham)............
 
Put a world map up........... You will be talking beyond the USA in short  
order.  
 
I use a DOW KEY relay on my boatanchor rigs.  The DowKey switches the  
antenna from the receive to transmit position each time the transmitter is  keyed.  
Its external contacts mute the receiver for me.  In multiple  receiver setups, 
it's easy to switch the receive side of the dow key to any  number of 
receivers by simply using multiple RF switches such as those made by  DAIWA and 
others.   However, if all receivers have a "mute" function,  then the dow key only 
has two sets of external contacts to perform external  switching, grounding or 
whatever you ask them to do.  I wouldn't recommend  multiple "mute" circuits 
to receivers using just one set of contacts.  Of  course, one could also build 
a multi-pole switch arrangement and satisfy that  need.  Just another switch 
to throw when switching receivers.  If a  DOWKEY is not available, don't 
panic.  Potter and Brumfield (and many other  manufacturers) produce relays that 
are very capable of switching RF at HF  frequencies without worry about loss.  
They come in any number of  configurations and at various coil voltages.  I 
would expect with the  CE-100V, a 110vac coil is likely in order.  A simple octal 
socket, a plug  in relay, a couple of SO-239's and some coax and you're in 
business.  Even  Rat Shack (Radio Shack) still has small project boxes which 
would work nicely if  you build your own Antenna Switching Relay.
 
You get the idea.  Personally, I only use one Rx when I'm  operating.  I may 
listen to more than one if just band cruising, but only  one when operating.  
 
Connectors in the shack.............  We all have multiple ones if we  
operate gear that is original and happens to have a different output jack.   I 
operate COLLINS as my primary stations and their rf output jacks are RCA phono  
jacks.  I simple convert them to whatever my antenna system is using  (SO-239's 
and PL 259's) with interconnecting cables terminated in the  appropriate 
connector for each device.  I NEVER modify a rig in an effort  to standardize it.  
Do the conversions in the coax cables.  And don't  worry too much about those 
who will talk at length about such things as  "impedance bumps" or "an RCA 
connector was never designed for  RF"......................  I've never met an 
average ham yet who  experienced death defying circumstances when he/she used a 
BNC instead of an  SO-239.  You said it best in that you're operating at 100 
watts  output.  You're right in there with most of us.
 
Concentrate on a good antenna if you don't do anything else.  Your  
effeciency will depend nearly 100% on the antenna and something far less than  that on 
the output power of the rig. (That's why those using QRP still work  hundreds, 
even thousands of miles with less than 5watts output)   Unless  you 
deliberately sabotage yourself by using wet or shorted coax or some off the  wall stuff 
someone convinced you was the answer to all prayers, you will do  nicely with 
a good antenna and feed line and a rig that matches the impedance  the 
antenna seeks.
 
I hope some of this helps.  If too far out, dump it in the  bitbox.
 
Good luck with your efforts.  It sounds as if you have the right ideas  with 
the right gear.
 
Maybe see you down the log someday.
 
Best 73 de W4MIL
 
Chuck