[Boatanchors] EICO 666 Model Tube Tester

[Greg Miller]

Mark,
    I have one of these testers - they work well!  It's satan's tube tester
(666)!!  :)
    I can't remember for sure off the top of my head, but I think there's
only a few caps and a selenium diode (little black box bolted to the inside
frame) in there.  Mine didn't work at all when I got it and I had to replace
the caps and the diode and it fired right up.  I just used a 1N4007 diode.
    As for the switches, I sprayed them with some tuner cleaner/lube (like
Jif Action from GC) and worked them to get them loose.  Also, the shafts may
be slightly bent where the buttons stick out and rub against the front
plate.  I'd also make sure to clean out the tube sockets.
    I'm sure I have a manual here somewhere that I can copy for you if you'd
like it.  It has an updated list of tester settings.  It may take a while
for me to locate though...

    Good luck and 73,
    - Greg K2GTM


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Bell" <bell@blazenet.net>
To: "Boatanchors List" <boatanchors@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 10:22 PM
Subject: [Boatanchors] EICO 666 Model Tube Tester


> Hey Gang --
>
> Picked up an Eico 666 tube tester recently, and once turned on, I found it
> to be in less than optimal condition.  The seller said I could return it,
or
> try to fix it,  so I figured I'd see if I could get the beastie to work.
>
> It kinda tests tubes OK, but not all good tubes test good.  One problem is
> that the Line Adjust function doesn't work.  I think I've got that problem
> solved as there's supposed to be -70V on C1, but I measure only -45.
> Probably a leaky capacitor.   I can't cal the unit as per the procedure,
as
> I can't get full scale deflection, but again I think that's due to the
> capacitor.
>
> All the filament voltages are in the ballpark, and twidlling with the line
> adjust brings them dead on, so I'm confident the transformer is good.
>
> Now, the problem I need some help on is the row of push button switches.
> They're supposed to latch once depressed.  Pressing the "Reset" button
will
> unlatch any stuck
> buttons.  They latch OK, but the Reset button isn't usually effective.
When
> the Reset
> button is depressed, a metal bar is shifted slightly (perpendicular to the
> motion of the switches), and the pressed switches should spring out.  The
> beastie's old, and I think a little lube job is in order.   Is that a good
> solution?  What kind of lubricant?
>
> Any and all comments welcomed.
>
> 73 Mark K3ZX
>
>
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