[ARC5] [Milsurplus] Cleaning fine crackle paint

[Scott Robinson]

Folks,

My understanding (from a PhD chemist who used to haunt an old radio list 
on usenet) is that WD-40 contains Stoddard solvent, which is just 
deodorized kerosene, plus a propellant, probably butane nowadays.

Its main difficulty from my perspective is that people think it's a 
lubricant, and it's not. The Stoddard solvent will evaporate in a month 
or so, leaving an un-lubricated surface. Clean with WD-40, but if you 
want lubrication, apply oil afterwards, or use WD040  to thin old, 
hardened grease in place.

For surface cleaning, it's essentially just kerosene and its effects on 
paint and surfaces should be thought of it in that light.

Now, about heavy duty soaps and cleaners: *thorough* rinsing, including 
with DISTILLED water, is ESSENTIAL. I once saw the results of a test 
done by a buy who had a hot steamy tropical environment chamber at work. 
He had taken about 25 new electrical box covers (zinc plated steel) and 
washed them with various household cleaning products. He rinsed them 
all, and then rinsed half of each very carefully with distilled water. 
After  a month or so in the test chamber, he posted a photo of them all. 
Every one, without exception, was rusty on the side that had bee 
casually rinsed and just fine on the side that had been very carefully 
rinsed with distilled water.

Cleaning is fine, but don't use soap and such on things that won't 
permit COMPLETE rinsing--no riveted assemblies, for instance, since its 
very difficult to get soap residue out of the spaces between metal 
sheets, or from under rivet heads.

IMHO, looks good now and a corroded mess in a couple of years is *not* 
an improvement.

My 2 cents' worth.

/scott robinson

On 4/17/15 6:05 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:
> Dave's procedure below is excellent advice.
>
> I suggest that the final oil treatment be done using BREAK FREE-CLP.
>   http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-CLP-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative/dp/B002FBD02W
>
> CLP has been the US military standard small-arms cleaner/lubricant/preservative for more than 30 years.  It is outstanding for metal surface applications, of course.  Since 1985 I've found it to be the best crackle/wrinkle paint surface treatment ever.  It's synthetic and of moderate cost, but a few ounces will go a long way...a small fraction of an ounce will do all of a BC-375-* and its BC-348-*.
>
> My process to restore a dirty painted surface:
>
> 1.  Wash away gross surface dirt and crud with warm water containing MURPHY'S OIL SOAP (a mild soap).
> 2.  Let surface dry out very thoroughly, after which it will likely appear somewhat blanched with some fine dirt remaining.
> 3.  Apply a small amount of CLP (use liquid version, not spray) and spread over the surface with a paper towel.  When the desired area have been treated let things soak for a few hours (optional step) before coming back with clean paper towels to wipe away excess.  Any remaining "wet" areas will naturally dry away in the next few days.
>
> The results of this simple quick painless process are beautiful and last for decades.  The CLP can also be effective restoring those plastic-style nomenclature plates like those found on many BC-348-R panels and a lot of WWII USN gear.  The CLP seems to penetrate into the surface of those funky non-metal plates better than any other oils.
>
> I use CLP for all my weapons cleaning needs.  It is an excellent all-purpose lubricant.
>
> Everything I described above is at nearly every Walmart (MURPHY'S in the cleaning products shelves and BREAK FREE-CLP (use liquid version) in the gun cleaning gear section).
>
> FWIW, I cringe whenever I hear WD-40 recommended for anything other than water displacement service where the surfaces will get immediate follow-on treatment with a real and proper lubricant.  WD-40 is absolutely worthless and harmful for EVERY other purpose.
>
> Mike / KK5F
>
> Dave wrote:
>
>> A word of caution, from personal experience:
>> If any of the 409/Ammonia/Scrubbing Bubbles etc.
>> solution gets under screw heads or rivits, etc.,
>> in a few years they will have a bright green
>> ring of corrosion around them.
>> I stopped using harsh chemicals long ago.
>>
>> The old wrinkle paint surface micro-cracks down
>> some fraction of the depth of the paint.  Microscopic dust
>> collects in these cracks over the years, making a dirty, dull
>> look to the paint.  No amount of cleaning will get it all out.
>>
>> Assuming your paint is in good condition-
>> clean all the dirt you can get at with a dry paint brush,
>> followed by a medium tooth brush.
>> For heavy dirt, plain distilled water and scrubbing.
>> For oily or greasy stuff, a toothbrush soaked in
>> Ronson Lighter Fluid followed by blotting
>> with paper towels.
>>
>> Once you have removed as much dirt as possible,
>> you'll be left with a dingy, dull wrinkle paint.
>> Believe it or not, WWII Radio Maint. Shop manuals
>> call for a coat of oil on wrinkle paint.   Drop a few
>> drops of light machine oil like 3-n-1 on the surface.
>> It doesn't take much- a drop every 3-4 inches.
>> Using a medium bristle dry brush, scrub the oil around
>> the surface until you get an even sheen.  It takes some elbow
>> grease and good lighting.  Wipe away the
>> excess with a clean towel.   The oil will flow into the
>> micro-cracks, darkening the impacted dirt and melding
>> it with the black wrinkle finish and sealing the cracks.
>> You'll be rewarded with a wrinkle finish that looks
>> almost new and, if you cover it when not playing radio,
>> it will stay that way.
>> Works excellent on old, dull black knobs, too.
>> And when the radio warms up, the soothing smell
>> of machine oil warms a tinkerer's heart.
>
>
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