[ARC5] [Milsurplus] Cleaning fine crackle paint

[Mike Morrow]

Dave's procedure below is excellent advice.

I suggest that the final oil treatment be done using BREAK FREE-CLP.
 http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-CLP-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative/dp/B002FBD02W

CLP has been the US military standard small-arms cleaner/lubricant/preservative for more than 30 years.  It is outstanding for metal surface applications, of course.  Since 1985 I've found it to be the best crackle/wrinkle paint surface treatment ever.  It's synthetic and of moderate cost, but a few ounces will go a long way...a small fraction of an ounce will do all of a BC-375-* and its BC-348-*.

My process to restore a dirty painted surface:

1.  Wash away gross surface dirt and crud with warm water containing MURPHY'S OIL SOAP (a mild soap).
2.  Let surface dry out very thoroughly, after which it will likely appear somewhat blanched with some fine dirt remaining.
3.  Apply a small amount of CLP (use liquid version, not spray) and spread over the surface with a paper towel.  When the desired area have been treated let things soak for a few hours (optional step) before coming back with clean paper towels to wipe away excess.  Any remaining "wet" areas will naturally dry away in the next few days.

The results of this simple quick painless process are beautiful and last for decades.  The CLP can also be effective restoring those plastic-style nomenclature plates like those found on many BC-348-R panels and a lot of WWII USN gear.  The CLP seems to penetrate into the surface of those funky non-metal plates better than any other oils.

I use CLP for all my weapons cleaning needs.  It is an excellent all-purpose lubricant.

Everything I described above is at nearly every Walmart (MURPHY'S in the cleaning products shelves and BREAK FREE-CLP (use liquid version) in the gun cleaning gear section).

FWIW, I cringe whenever I hear WD-40 recommended for anything other than water displacement service where the surfaces will get immediate follow-on treatment with a real and proper lubricant.  WD-40 is absolutely worthless and harmful for EVERY other purpose.

Mike / KK5F 

Dave wrote:

>A word of caution, from personal experience:
>If any of the 409/Ammonia/Scrubbing Bubbles etc.
> solution gets under screw heads or rivits, etc., 
>in a few years they will have a bright green
>ring of corrosion around them.
>I stopped using harsh chemicals long ago.
>
>The old wrinkle paint surface micro-cracks down 
>some fraction of the depth of the paint.  Microscopic dust
>collects in these cracks over the years, making a dirty, dull
>look to the paint.  No amount of cleaning will get it all out.
>
>Assuming your paint is in good condition-
>clean all the dirt you can get at with a dry paint brush, 
>followed by a medium tooth brush.  
>For heavy dirt, plain distilled water and scrubbing.  
>For oily or greasy stuff, a toothbrush soaked in
> Ronson Lighter Fluid followed by blotting 
>with paper towels.
>
>Once you have removed as much dirt as possible, 
>you'll be left with a dingy, dull wrinkle paint.
>Believe it or not, WWII Radio Maint. Shop manuals
>call for a coat of oil on wrinkle paint.   Drop a few 
>drops of light machine oil like 3-n-1 on the surface.
>It doesn't take much- a drop every 3-4 inches.
>Using a medium bristle dry brush, scrub the oil around
>the surface until you get an even sheen.  It takes some elbow
>grease and good lighting.  Wipe away the 
>excess with a clean towel.   The oil will flow into the 
>micro-cracks, darkening the impacted dirt and melding 
>it with the black wrinkle finish and sealing the cracks.
>You'll be rewarded with a wrinkle finish that looks
>almost new and, if you cover it when not playing radio,
>it will stay that way.  
>Works excellent on old, dull black knobs, too.
>And when the radio warms up, the soothing smell
>of machine oil warms a tinkerer's heart.