[ARC5] Large-Pin GF/RU etc. Connectors

[WA5CAB at cs.com]

The best thing that I have found to use to install the push-button springs 
in the large banana pin connectors is another push-button spring opened up 
to about a 20 degree angle.  I keep one hanging behind the work bench on a 
ground buss wire that happens to run along there.  I've found that with the 
installer spring holding the operating spring in place, one can hold the 
connector body in the left hand with the left index finger pressing down on the 
installer.  The right hand pushes the insert with wires into the connector 
body far enough so that when the installer is pulled out, the operating spring 
is securely captured.

Robert D.

In a message dated 5/26/2013 12:06:49 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jcoward5452 at aol.com writes: 
> Potential source for springy steel:
> I just replaced the wiper blades on my truck.(supposed to rain in CA 
> Monday,go figure). The old blades had two spring steel strips along the length 
> of the blade which fall right out upon removale of the wiper blade. These 
> seem to be 1/2 the width of the channel that accepts the retainer hardware 
> for the big pin plugs Dave is refering to. Maybe one strip will work or two 
> side by side. Have not tried it yet.
> Guesstimate 1/8" x 1/32". Nice and "springy" but with some stiffness.
> My $.02, YMMV,etc.
> Jay KE6PPF
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Stinson <arc5 at ix.netcom.com>
> To: milsurplus <milsurplus at mailman.qth.net>; ARC-5 Yahoo <
> ARC-5radio at yahoogroups.com>; ARC-5 List <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 25, 2013 10:38 am
> Subject: [ARC5] Large-Pin GF/RU etc. Connectors
> 
> 
> Re: Using the large-pin Navy/Army connectors
> (GF/RU,. GP, SCR-183, LM etc.)
> Three people have asked me about this so I'm posting
> to the reflectors for general info.
> 
> The bakelite inserts are often "frozen" in place due to uptaking
> moisture over the decades.  Put them in a ceramic bowl and
> place them in a 250 degree oven for 2-3 hours.
> Let them cool and the inserts will likely be free.
> If not, treat again.  I've only had one out of many remain stuck.
> 
> To remove the inserts from those that had shielded cables
> and were "cut off," remove the insert locking screw.
> Put the connector in a bench vise, face down.
> Grip the insert with needle-nose pliers in two of the pins.
> Heat the "cut-off" end with a propane torch (stinky ;-).
> Gently pull and the insert and wires will come out.
> Use a screwdriver or something to remove the shield
> and debris while heating and you'll have a useable connector.
> Open wire vs. sheilded cable is authentic, especially later in
> the war when metals and rubber had to be carefully rationed.
> 
> To put the insert back- I have a thin metal strip that was originally
> used in a relay contact burnishing tool.  It is exactly the width
> of the groove in the bakelite insert into which the locking spring
> (with the two buttons) fits.  If you can find some "springy"
> steel or similar, you can make one.  Soft metal will not work.
> This takes some practice and will be a bit frustrating at first, but it 
> works.
> Hold the connector with the button holes down and place the
> leaf spring, open end to the front.   Place the metal strip in
> the bakelite groove, then place the strip's end above the leaf spring,
> compressing it.  As you align and assemble the connector,
> the metal strip will compress the leaf spring and allow
> the insert to slide right in.  Pull out the strip and align the screw 
> hole.
> 
> Steve is "the man" for these connectors.
> I'm grateful to him for spending his time and assets
> making these available to us.
> Here are a couple of links.  Click "other items"
> to see the many connectors he has available now.
> 
> 135 connectors:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221149076337
> 
> And I believe these are the Army version of 134:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140879756360
> 
> 73 DE Dave AB5S
>